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Posts posted by Cemetery
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One other thing to consider is how much trade goes through CA ports, both from other states for export and to other states as imports.
Isn't Long Beach in LA the biggest commerical port on the west coast? That port fuels the Southern Pacific don't it?
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End of Times.
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After stripping the wood, and cleaning it up, anybody ever do a slow cook/boil of the wood?
I heard this is the best way to clean out all the factory gunk, but I've never done it.
This a real procedure, or just voodoo?
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I have the Tower of Power has well. It hangs up a bit when all the way down or all the way up. I too would pay to have it converted to a better working loader.
I got this hangup problem as well.
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Use APP, or Triple 7.
You didn't say anything about BP subs........
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Yes ... Kill Obama Gun Laws
http://www.reuters.com/article/us-usa-congress-regulation-idUSKBN1592AT
Great, my wallet will love this!
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Getting the conservatives or even anti anti-gun folks to vote is key.
Not to hijack this thread too bad, it's said that most voters in NY State stay home on election day, because NYC voters trump them at every turn. Not sure how true this is, but it is a similar factor in NJ.
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Cemetery, I like that fix better than filling in the slot with JB Weld or some such thing.
You'd be surprised with the amount of blowback you get coming through the nipple....and those edges grab onto the caps pretty good.
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A small but fairly aggressive grit carborundum stone would be my first choice - a sliver that can be hand-worked back and forth with careful strokes. Could even be roughed in with a small diamond coated bit in an angle-head die grinder, then finished to square corners with the stone.
Pulling the barrel would make it so much easier, however.
Good luck, GJ
Upon looking at the space to work with, it seems that pulling the barrel is the only real solution. Cause from what google results are showing me, I'd have to do a whole lot of modification to make it work.
But on the plus side, I can get the muzzle crown redone easier as well.
'sigh'
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So, I've got a Winny 1873.
Extractor channel needs to be smoothed out, as it currently has a bump in which adds stress to the extractor, which I'm sure is not desired.
Anybody know what kind of file I could get to smooth this out, I know it's a tight fit, but I'd rather not deal with pulling the barrel off, as I don't have the tools for that, and I'm not gonna let some local sawbones touch this rifle.
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Easy guide for smoothing up the hammer face on cap n' ball gunz
http://www.full30.com/video/acf736abcacc35be89d41d581d945f98
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And fouling in the action as been nothing that a wuick wipe down with a patch and Simple Green couldnt handle.
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I use my 97 with real black.
No fuss. No muss.
5, 6 stages....like a Timex, keeps on ticking.
Trick I learned to reduce plastic wad build up in the barrel is to put the thin overshot card, over the powder before seating the plastic wad.
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By prorating, I was meaning what I have paid ahead, not what I have already used.
Bummer.....if bought a Life Membership when I started this game, it would be paod off by now
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I did inquire a while back as to whether the $800 would be prorated with what I have already paid, the answer was yes,.
Whoa?? Seriously?
Than I'm probably only $100 away from being a life member......
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Recently had a conversation with a shooting buddy......life get's crazy, and with clubs closing (ranges kicking clubs out), he's not sure if he's gonna renew since time to go to state and above matches has dwindled. And at $65 dollars a year, why bother. Makes me wonder.
But I noticed the 3 year membership, which I've done since joining in '06, is now gone, and life getting a little crazy, I wonder if I'll renew in '18 when it's due.
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If you're a MAC user, Handbrake does DVD to mp4.
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Is anyone using these with real BP? Any problems with the lack of lube?
I have shot my own power coating with the Subs in my rifle and pistols and have had not one issues as of yet for six stages and no swabbing the barrels
I'm sold that this is about as good as a PJ sandwich
From what I've read, these coatings work great with subs, but real black still needs loob.
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73 gates are different than 66 gates. They are much stronger. The loading gate in the photo looks like it should be reinforced before even using the gun. Doesn't matter how "strong" the metal is from the photo it appears the metal is so thin it is not going to hold up
for competition shooting.while simply loading the rifle.Fixed it for you.
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I wasn't going to write this and then I thought "what the heck".
Anyway, back in late 2000 I was invited to go on stage and meet and shake hands with Bill Clinton at the Staples Center when I worked for the transit agency there in Los Angeles. I was one of four "invitees". I declined.
I met Bill, and Billary Clinton.....shook both of his hands. Talk about people who aren't 'there'.........
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I will get some pictures out later tonight. If you thought the tab on the Uberti was bad, wait tell you see this one. Just a thin post.
oh good grief........
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I picked up one the other day from GunBroker. The 38 spec with the 20in round barrel. Haven't had time to actually fire it, did some dry firing with dummy rounds. Cycling was smooth, but not like a well turned gun from one of the top smiths supporting SASS shooters. Actually smoother, than my stock Miroku 73. What is interesting the caliber is marked 38 special but the carrier is the same length as the 73 - .357 rifle. Rounds loaded to 1.57 inches cycled much better than the 38 spec length of 1.42 inches. Sorry no pictures - compared to the non-shootable 150th year commemorative rifle fit and finish are about the same. Course the wood on the commemorative is outstanding compared to the stock gun and the bluing looks slightly darker on the commemorative. Price was the same as the Uberti's on Gunbroker.
How does the loading gate tab look? Have you taken the side plates off yet?
California looking to secede
in SASS Wire Saloon
Posted
That only counts when it's a Red state...........