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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Posts posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. ?

    Long reach back to just show that my needs and your needs may be at variance.


    When I was in my first 5 years of shooting SASS, I used dry fire a lot to speed up my load and shuck. Now that I have that timing built in, I practice more with transitions and accuracy at speed. Dry fire doesn't show me the accuracy part. So, I now mostly live fire shotgun.


    Good luck, GJ

  2. Personally, I think your goal of getting better with the shotgun can be accomplished with dummy shells. I believe you are wanting to improve loading and shucking. You can get a lot of good practice dry firing.




    Don't need to fire rounds to get in good SG practice. Lots of pards know how to make up dummy shells for shotgun. If you are using a 97, you probably want light weight dummies (no shot) - this saves the extractors/ejector from the extra work of kicking out heavy rounds. If using SxS, then usually heavy weight dummies are better to practice with.


    Good luck, GJ

  3. AND:

    Given the couple of large bays that host 4 stages shooting simultaneously, picking brass would also be impossible due to having to declare a "cold line" periodically to shag the posse's brass - and even more delay if each shooter was to get their own brass back.


    Don't worry. More new brass is available now than over the last five years, thanks to Starline expanding production.


    Good luck, GJ

  4. Black Diamond models were a "high end" variation from the factory. But the "valuation add" for that model goes down fast as the gun is used. And your pictures show tons of wear. That is not a collectors gun at this point in its life (unless there is a "story" to the gun that makes it historically interesting), so value it just as a shooter, based upon it's condition and reliability.


    Like a well used commemorative or engraved gun, there is no added value for the fancy added features.




    Is it a shooter or a wall hanger?


    Depends upon condition of the gun, especially the internals. And the serial number range. A good gun smith (knowledgeable about 97s) is the only way to really know. Just looking at the lettering on the slide arm, it could even be a 1900 era gun.



    Good luck, GJ

  5. 45 degree angle is plenty.


    Shotgun loads will leave you with a disappointingly small lead recovery, as a much larger fraction of the lead turns into lead dust. You might even be able to use a water pan, much easier to get the lead out of water than sawdust, but then, the sawdust you can leave in the lead as you melt it and it just helps flux the melt.


    Pick your target for setting in front of your recovery plate carefully. If you shoot standard knockdowns with their vertical target, even a small knockdown will intercept 80% of the shotgun pattern at cowboy distances and vaporize that part of the shot string. If you use frangible targets (clay birds) then you have the fragments to sift out or to "live with" the smoke they create and extra dross produced upon smelting the lead down to make ingots.


    I've seen lots of clay target ranges recover shot that was fired over their range, most of it not badly deformed. But never heard of anyone intentionally trying to "trap" lead shot at the target. Possibly because of the difficulties mentioned above.


    Good luck, GJ

  6. Silver Senior Duelist is not an official SASS category but for the last 3 of 4 years at the Michigan Range War it was available for us Silver Seniors, I think we had 12 or 15 shoot it.


    Then it sounds like the Match Director and other match officials made a good call, that there were a healthy number of contestants allowed to shoot in that peer group with like minded and capability shooters, and that if awards went 3 deep for the category, most pards probably thought they were "recognized" properly.


    Which, after all, is one of the core ways to "keep the customers happy."


    Good luck, GJ

  7. I thought it was just a handful....thanks everyone. Started as a duelist, now silver senior duelist.


    Only if a match director decides to award Silver Senior Duelist.

    And that is usually driven from several shooters requesting such a category. And it has to be balanced against the match funds and everyone's time it takes to make the extra awards for a match.


    SSD is not an official category that must be awarded.


    Your concern sounds like it should be forwarded to the Match Director of the appropriate event.....


    Remember, though, the game is bigger than it was in the 1990s, with more shooters and more events. To have expected the game to have stayed "just as it was invented" is off the mark.


    Good luck, GJ

  8. At turn of the century (2000), there were standard and ladies categories for:


    Modern - (adjustable revolver sights)

    Traditional - (fixed sights)


    Buckaroo Junior

    Frontier Cartridge Mod and Traditional



    and some of the age modifications (Senior being most common)


    The finer age splits (Buckaroo, Young Gun, Wrangler, 49er, Silver Senior, Elder Statesman, Cattle Baron), Classic Cowboy (about 2004) and B Western (about 2006) came later.


    As I recall....



    And, with your SASS number in the 29K range, I'd have thought you had been around since mid 1990s.


    Good luck, GJ

  9. Here's what a serrated front sight looks like in particular. :lol:



    OK, after learning several thousand things about Google Photos :wacko:, I came up with this link for my serrated stainless Vaquero front sights:




    I did that file work in just a few minutes with, I believe, a 40 LPI checkering file from Brownells. About 3 or 4 years ago.


    Good luck, GJ

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  10. As to the short stroke they install - they don't "kit" it - they designed their own action parts so they can provide parts "forever." Would not be wise for them to select a kit and try to "boogie on down the road" for the next 50 years when the vendor has been retired or out of business for the last 40 years.....


    Good luck, GJ

  11. The announcement I read said Stanley would assume and continue to honor all the Craftsman warranties on US made tools.


    Even Sears "adjusted" the quality on the Craftsman products over the years - no reason to think Stanley won't also.....


    Most hand tools are not getting to be "better quality" than they were in the 1950s and 60s. :(


    BTW - "Craftsman" was a brand name that was applied to many different companies tools that were branded for Sears to sell as Craftsman. Just like the Ted Williams line of sporting goods, long guns and fishing tackle were. There is no "Craftsman" company.


    Good luck, GJ

  12. Make sure you have a couple of your RO's familiar with the safety, manual of arms, malfunction clearing and lots of the specifics of shooting a 1911.


    Don't reholster the 1911 after it has been shot. Gun with slide locked back won't fit well in the holster. Provide a staging table to put the open and empty 1911 down on the table, muzzle still down range. Then clear the 1911 on the line using the 1911 clearing techniques of:

    * Show gun empty and magazine out

    * Drop slide with muzzle down range

    * Drop hammer by a trigger pull

    * Re-holster


    This style of mixed shooting has been done for years. Some clubs enjoy it. Lots of clubs have one or more Cowboy shooters who may have severe problems allowing this to be done in the match that they are shooting in. Keep your ears open as you start doing this. Be responsive to what the shooters are willing or unwilling to support. This is an old idea which has largely fallen out of favor at this time.


    Almost all the clubs that have done this (combined Cowboy and simplified Wild Bunch) have found they might attract another 5% of shooters who don't want to shoot cowboy guns. But it's real hard to keep them coming back very long when there are more modern and tactically challenging sports like 3 Gun around the corner.


    Consider also what you will let them use for their shotgun. Going to let them stoke their 97 with the number of rounds needed for shotgun targets? Going to allow Win Model 12 shotguns, and do you know how to check the Model 12 for hammer down on empty chamber?


    Most of us would instead encourage you to have full-rule-set Wild Bunch matches! Allow smaller caliber rifles if you want. But get folks shooting under the full rule set. It's lots more fun, and then becomes something more than just Cowboy Shooting with a 1911. You will have a better chance of getting "repeat customers" when the matches are all Wild Bunch shooters, instead of a couple of 1911 shooters coming out to the range with 20 Cowboys.


    Good luck, GJ


    Hot dang. So now Hornady manufactures Leverevolution ammo with spitzer points. What's your concern?



    Very special polymer tips that are "major league" cushions instead of "firing pin substitutes." Yep. The invention and testing of those sure do not justify using regular pointy bullet tips (lead or other metal) in lever guns.


    Good luck, GJ



    What gives?


    Hornady must have perceived little need to publish .357/.38 rifle data, so they did not spend the money on ballistics techs working up data for this edition.


    In general, add 200-300 FPS to what a 6" revolver MV result is and you will be close to what the MV for a 20" lever rifle will produce with the same load.


    If this is world-ending for you, then drop Hornady a note and express your concerns to them. If they get a hundred or so, their next edition may have some dedicated rifle data.


    But, I never look at the rifle section of loading books for pistol cartridge data, so I won't be one of those with any concerns.


    For the best data on cast bullet loading as we do for this sport, see the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook #4! They do have a rifle section for .38 spl, if I recall.


    Good luck, GJ

  15. I tried finding gloves I could shoot well in - never did.


    So, now I use large well insulated gloves that are easy to get on and off, with a hand warmer packet in each. Right before leaving the loading table, off come the gloves. Shoot, and at the unloading table, they go back on. Minute 30 at the most. Get a pair with a snap connector that joins the gloves and you can hang them over the back of your shotgun belt.


    Good luck, GJ

  16. I'd not worry about most straight-line magazines, because a primer needs a pretty tight point of impact to go off. A Henry design, with a spring loaded follower (that has to be compressed to load the magazine, then released to set down on the cartridges) which can slam a column of cartridges together with quite a bit of force - now that I would get very cautious about using a round nose slug in.


    Good luck, GJ

  17. Accurate Molds website asks what material you will be casting with as casting with any alloy other than the one specified will change the resultant diameter.


    Can someone explain how the below casting materials would affect as-cast diameter?


    These are the casting materials listed by Accurate Molds:

    - Lead

    - Clip-on Lead Wheel Weights

    - 1:30 Tin - Lead

    - COWW +2% Tin

    - 2-6-92 Hardball

    - 1:25 Tin - Lead

    - 1:20 Tin - Lead

    - 1:15 Tin - Lead

    - Lyman #2

    - Linotype



    (This following material ignores thermal expansion of the mold at casting temperature. There would also have to be an adjustment for the mold material (iron, brass, aluminum) growing in cavity diameter as the mold gets to casting temperature.)


    Pure lead shrinks 1.13% of the bullet diameter from the (room temperature) mold inside diameter. Thus, to cut a mold to cast pure lead, Tom at Accurate cuts the diameter to be 1.13% bigger than the diameter you want the slug to cast at, when it cools off.


    Linotype shrinks 0.65% of the diameter as it solidifies. So Tom would cut the mold a little tighter if you specify linotype.


    All the other alloys are in-between pure lead and linotype. The ones with all tin in the alloy will shrink more like pure lead does. The ones with antimony (COWW, 6%/2% Hardball, Lyman #2) will be more like the lino shrinkage numbers.


    So for a .357 desired bullet diameter as cast, a Pure Lead mold would be cut to 0.3611" inside diameter

    And a Linotype mold would be cut to 0.3593"

    (If he can hold a ten-thousandths tolerance)


    So you can see there's a couple thousandths difference between what a pure lead (high shrinkage) and a linotype (less shrinkage) mold cavity diameter would be.


    Data on lead alloy shrinkage when solidifying is from Glen Fryxell and Robert Applegate's book:

    From Ingot to Target:A Cast Bullet Guide for Handgunners


    at the LASC site: http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm



    And a few more alloys are listed in this reference page (1/3 way down the page)





    Another thing this shows you, from any mold, a pure lead slug will be a couple-three thousandths smaller than a linotype slug cast in same mold. Thus, folks have not only a harder slug but a larger slug when they cast with linotype or other antimonial lead alloy. And running those two slugs through a sizer, the lino slug will be harder to size by quite a bit, because it's both harder and larger diameter!



    Good luck, GJ



    PS - Trivia question: at what amount of antimony in a lead alloy would a bullet not shrink at all when it cools?



























    Per some gov't research in the 1930s, a 75% antimony alloy bullet would be the same size as the liquid in the mold. No shrinkage. And it would be really hard, and it would be very hard to knock out of the mold. Pure antimony EXPANDS as it cools, and cannot be cast accurately in an enclosed mold - it spreads the mold halves apart.



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