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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Everything posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. Run-N- Iron (ask for Lonnie). See their photo gallery for pics of their restoration work. Run-N-Iron cowboy gun services good luck, GJ
  2. If the first recommendations fail - First, run a very fine punch through the connecting pin hole in the bolt's connecting block, to make sure ALL the pin came out. Should see daylight through it. Get out two water pump pliers or vise grips, and cut a few leather pads to cover the teeth of the jaws. Rosin applied to leather surface, if you have some. Slide bolt assembly as far rearward as possible. Hold the block part of bolt in one pliers, twist a little on the firing pin extension. There's a flat on the bottom surface of the tail of the FPE that really lets you g
  3. Yes, collectors pay pretty well for old powder cans in good shape. More than the powder was/is worth. Check out Gun Broker and other firearms auction sites, eBay, etc. There are old copies of loading manual s around that have Hi-Vel #2 data in them. Even well stored, the powder is probably not very usable at this point. If it smells acidic, bitter, or has odd colors (red, yellow), then it would not be in shape to use for sure. Here's and example of a load with Hi-Vel 2 from the Ideal loading handbook #36, published in 1949. For the 30-06 rifle 150
  4. Probably either the half-cock notch has a burr on it, or the fit between sear/trigger is too tight. It is also quite possible to damage the half cock notch or the sear/trigger tip by pulling the trigger hard enough when at half cock. This requires replacing or rebuilding the interface between the two. With the Rossi samples you tried out, you have already found that fitting work on the trigger and hammer at the factory is far from high quality. (Like many firearms any more - unfortunately) good luck, GJ
  5. There can be several reasons to use poly coated bullets. Among them the most important to many loaders is much less need to clean lube out of bullet seating/crimping dies and firearm actions. But to worry about up to 40 thousandths of OAL variance in a lubed-bullet cartridge that is about 1.600" long (2.5% of the cartridge length variance) when we are shooting at targets 10 yards away is wasting effort. Now, if you put the two types of loads to a test that looks at mean and standard deviation in group size at 10 yards and you find poly bullets will shoot a STATISTICALLY SIGNIFICA
  6. The BOLT that he talked about was the sliding action locking bolt in the bottom of the action. That is the common name for a sliding locking bar. There is a locking bolt in EVERY hinge action gun that lock up on lugs under the barrel, and even on other locking mechanism designs. What he "installed" was a notch for the bolt to catch on to hold the action open so the cocking levers don't force the action to close and prevent loading the chambers without a hand holding the action open. Good luck, GJ
  7. The original Henry Big Boy centerfire lever rifles without the side loading gate fall apart (literally - they spit out broken action parts) or otherwise are very prone to jamming. If run VERY slowly and smoothly, they will usually last for a match or two, sometimes longer. But as soon as the new shooter sees someone run 10 shots in 5 seconds with their toggle link gun or a Marlin or a 92, the new shooter tries to speed way past what the Henry can cycle without damaging internal parts. And, the tubular magazine loading through removable inner liner and follower is a slow and cumbersome way
  8. Just about any gunsmith, and lots of parts changers, can put in new 1911 hammers and tune the trigger pull. One of the simplest jobs going. While doing this, I'd have them put in at least a fresh sear spring and mainspring in each gun. Would be hard to beat Jess Briley 1230 Lumpkin Rd, Houston, Texas 77043 (713) 932-6995 Call ahead and see how busy they are. good luck, GJ
  9. Case volume never varies. Better to use volume. Practically speaking, try both and use what gives best accuracy in your guns. good luck, GJ
  10. Maybe the original owner used dry grass clippings and toothpaste as an action tune-up compound. Does it smell minty? Try rinsing some of that sludge to see if there is hay or straw strands in it. I could imagine dust and barn chaff combining to fill up the action if it had been a "barn gun." good luck, GJ
  11. If using a Lyman powder measure, you have to understand how gravity (and the adjustments) work. That is, there are three adjustments to internal bars that open up the throat of the measure. The big, lowest bar has to be open so it's top never sticks out in the throat from under the middle bar. The middle bar has to be tucked under the edge of the top bar. Otherwise, the "steps" retain a variable amount of powder on every throw. When I hear a person say they can't get an accurate weight, that's the first thing I have them check. good luck, GJ
  12. As long as you stick with the same brand of Black Powder, the amount of powder will be the same with weighing or volume. Most folks find a good measure like the Lyman is best, fastest, just as accurate on target as weighing. As you say, if you need to use drop tube to get as much powder in as you can, you need to use the measure. good luck, GJ
  13. Sometimes inconsistent seating depth is caused by applying no crimp or a very loose crimp. Then some of the bullets can stick to the seater stem and be pulled out of case slightly. This will make a longer-than-average OverAll Length (OAL). Can also happen if you have some brass that is short. With that problem, there is not enough mouth to the case to have the crimp die press the mouth into the bullet. OP - you did not specify what DIRECTION your OAL was off. That is important information for folks trying to troubleshoot over the Wire. good luck, GJ
  14. Pretty simple job, if one really wants to do that. Gun gets more expensive and painful to shoot! But Joe Alves at Pioneer Gun Works is up in your neighborhood and might be able to handle that. Also, Randy Redman in Omak, WA does great barrel work. http://www.pioneergunworks.com/ https://redmansrifling.com/ I'd trust either to get it just right. good luck, GJ
  15. Went by a Hobby Lobby today. The cheap set (which works fine) was $10. I picked up that set as a backup for my other two sets Not to put too fine a point on it! You can do well with just these pencils - 4B - 6 Brinell - 30-1 lead-tin 3B - 9 Brinell (great for cowboy, and semiautos below 1000 FPS) B - 12 Brinell wheel weights (Old alloy; modern will be softer)) F - 16 Brinell - 6 Sb - 2 Sn commercial alloy H - 20 Brinell water quench Wheel Weight - about right for moderate cast rifle slugs 2H - 24 Brinell - water quench 6/2 alloy - high velocity
  16. Several folks have developed something very cheap. Search Cast Boolits "lead alloys" forum for testing with drawing pencil sets. A $20 set from Hobby Lobby or Michaels or other art supply store will test bullets for you for next 20 years. The set come with different hardness marks. The Cast Boolits forum gives you a conversion from art-pencil hardness to Brinell hardness. It's just about as accurate as my Cabine Tree hardness tester. good luck, GJ
  17. Soft bullets (Brinell 8 or 9) are PLENTY hard enough for our loads. If you are leading at cowboy game velocities, you are shooting a bullet that is too small and/or lubed (or coated) badly. Of course, when we shoot a game where accuracy largely does not matter, you can shoot almost any hardness of cast bullets and still be on the steel. How hard is that? Still soft enough to scratch a groove with the edge of a fingernail if you press hard. Now, since commercial casters have to make slugs that will work (no leading) at magnum velocities and pressures - about all they want to
  18. Shot in size 9 will work fine. As close as we shoot targets with shotguns, the pattern will be the size of a saucer, and you will never know the difference from #7.5 good luck, GJ
  19. RCBS handles are built even better than the 2 mentioned above, and will usually fit Lyman molds. Lyman makes two sizes of handles. one to fit 1 and 2 cavity molds, and one to fit 4 cavity molds. Saeco/Redding handles are out there (very high quality), but fit only Saecos unless you grind on the tangs. Be aware of what you are buying. Looked at Lyman's own catalog on-line https://www.lymanproducts.com/mould-handles and the picture they show looks exactly like a Saeco handle. Perhaps they are farming out handle production to Saeco/Redding and ensuring that
  20. They will make great sporting clays or trap ammo! good luck, GJ
  21. Yep, if you are a little careful, a primer can be tapped out or punched out with sizer/decapper die without setting it off. Been doing that for 45 years. Wearing good eye protection is a minimum when doing that. good luck, GJ
  22. But they made so few that few of us have ever seen one. I would bet at least they used high-alloy steel in the frame and bolt and links. They use lower-strength (high-carbon only) steels for those same parts in the regular 73s. Do NOT expect to run 40,000 PSI like a .44 Mag can in a .357 mag rifle, unless it's a Win 92 or 94 design. Good luck, GJ
  23. Yeah, once you shoot a cowboy match, you will realize you don't need OR WANT to shoot .357 magnum factory loads at one. good luck, GJ
  24. If your lizard litter is dusty, you need a used dryer sheet in your vibratory bowl. No more dust and cleaner media afterwards, too. good luck, GJ
  25. I think you may have read too many old articles about the weakness of an original Winchester 73 action. And, there are no maximum SAAMI pressure limits. There are SAAMI pressure limits. And proof testing runs a little above that. You either buy factory ammo and reload to factory ammo specifications (from ANY good loading manual), or you hot-rod past those limits. Me, I'd stick to a Miroku built 73 in .357 magnum, currently made under the Winchester brand name. It would be tested to SAAMI factory .357 magnum ammo levels. Would be fairly slick right out of the box
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