Jump to content
SASS Wire Forum

Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. Most shooters DON'T do this particular modification on their own. They let one of our good gunsmiths do it. It usually involves changing the cocking points for both hammers to be a little more in the open position, so the gun hangs open after cocking instead of the cocking springs pushing the gun slightly closed. This sometimes also means the hinge has to be "retimed" to prevent the gun from tearing up the hinge and forearm hangers. It's not just a drop-in part or one single simple "grind this spot right here" operation. Send the gun off to Goatneck Clem (above) Johnny Meadows Jar
  2. Yep! No need to leave a credit card stuck in a primer tray, either, and not remember that until you get to the LGS! Good luck, GJ
  3. Telling folks the belt size would probably enhance your possibilities for a sale....often it's stamped on inside of belt near buckle. Good luck, GJ
  4. Well, you can get away with that practice in a straight-walled rifle case like 45-70. Doing that in 38-55 or other more pronounced-shoulder cartridge can quickly ring the chamber or cause high pressures (trying to blow a cereal plug through the constriction and down the barrel in addition to the bullet itself). Be aware that none of the powder manufacturers recommend an over-powder card or ANY type of filler or powder positioning puffs any more with smokeless powders! Too many guns damaged. If an unwadded charge of Unique doesn't work well, then you are MUCH better off going to a la
  5. Still quite satisfied with Hornady One Shot for cowboy loading. For rifle cases, good old case lube on an ink pad. Good luck, GJ
  6. WRONG! Not applicable when a different gun type is what causes the split. It is true when movement to a new position causes the "split" - but then, that is not a split by the definition below, either. Here's the applicable definition: Shooter's Handbook, Page 23 When shooter goes to any other gun but another revolver, the first revolver string ends! Either holster by stage convention, or override the need to holster with instructions in the stage description. It's really pretty simple to do EITHER and avoid arguments at the match. Good luck, GJ
  7. Are two pieces of string separated by a wall one string or two? Sure it's two strings. Write it into the stage if you want to override standard stage conventions and NOT require immediate re-holstering of revolver after the first five shots for anyone but GF style. Or make it real simple and REQUIRE restaging revolvers back on the table! Collect them after the stage is done. Good luck, GJ
  8. A small but fairly aggressive grit carborundum stone would be my first choice - a sliver that can be hand-worked back and forth with careful strokes. Could even be roughed in with a small diamond coated bit in an angle-head die grinder, then finished to square corners with the stone. Pulling the barrel would make it so much easier, however. Then you just run an end-mill down the slot. EDM machining would be the high-end, very accurate approach. If you had a buddy in high-tech metal shop. Good luck, GJ
  9. Leather stays loose rolled in my plastic "packer" boxes with the rest of the gear needed for Cowboy or Wild Bunch. Labeled Box for each so I don't take the right box to the wrong match. All the stuff I need makes it to a match - nothing left hanging on the wall 30 or 300 miles away from the match. But then again, perhaps your rememberer is sharper than mine. Good luck, GJ
  10. To reinforce what DS stated, because you are getting into a gray area with your stage where the rules could get argued either way, your stae description had better make it clear which way you are going to allow shooters to run the guns. It sounds like your design intent here is to split the pistols with shotgun following each of 5 revolver shots. A GF can accomplish that either by double duelist (and either by drawing one gun at a time, or drawing two and shooting only one, staging, and picking up one or both but only firing the second pistol duelist). So, state the SEQUENCE of guns cle
  11. Ummm, probably not cores. Cores usually don't get lubed and knurled, as far as I understand bullet swaging processes. Perhaps some experiment where standard .38 bullets were run through a sizer die for some reason? In any case, melt 'em. Good luck, GJ
  12. PPU ammo is very nice quality. And no longer made under communist management. And makes reasonable empty brass to reload. It is, however, not made in USA. Good luck, GJ
  13. Pretty long to be pistol slugs. Do those weigh 158 grains, or more? Sounds like feedstock for the melting pot. They will be soft lead, most likely. Good luck, GJ
  14. No, a full case of even FFFg black will NOT blow up a SAA. Will be well under the SAAMI pressure standards for .44 WCF cartridge, which are 13,000 Copper Units of Pressure (11,000 PSI). Original .44-40 loads by Winchester were loaded with 40 grains of FFg powder, according to rounds that have been broken down for inspection, and that amount of powder will not fit in modern cases. Good luck, GJ
  15. SOMEONE needs to check the timing on the gun, and the condition of the cartridge support tab on the bolt face! Second, the slot in the chamber face into which the extractor extends when bolt is in battery. The common "breakage" comes from the tip of the extractor slamming into either the case rim or an obstruction. It's hard to wear out a .45 Colt extractor in just a few months. But, yeah, for us to tell you more, we need to know much more - about the gun, about any damage to the broken extractors, what vendor of extractor he's using, how fast and smooth he runs the gun! Good luck
  16. Only have had 1 buy where I had to spend a couple of months running the feller to ground to convince him to send the gun to me. He was a pard on the way out of the game, and I guess it didn't matter much to him what his reputation would be. Probably twenty other transactions with you pards, and every one has been from good to wonderful. Thanks to you all, and keep up the good work. It's the Cowboy Way. WE ARE NOT POST_TRUTH AGE HERE! GJ
  17. Don't get a cap stuck in the works! Best wishes for quick and easy recovery, Dawg. Good luck, GJ
  18. He's relocated recently to the PNW, if I recall. good luck, GJ
  19. Accurate Molds makes several designs that would work well in C45S. In fact, they make a mold that I designed and use. http://www.accuratemolds.com/catalog.php See page 11. 45-150S, 45-160S are good candidates. My design is the 45-175B - accurate in my revolvers. Tom at Accurate will cut the mold to drop .454" or even slightly larger if you want. Since he cuts every mold on order. PMing you my favorite load with 175 grain slug. Several dies can be mixed and matched to load C45Sp. It is easiest with a full 45 Auto Rim die set - the roll crimp die will be included wi
  20. Certainly no inside reaming is needed to shoot in revolvers. And I can't see where it would be needed in rifle either, as the .45 Colt chamber dimensions are VERY large. Chop saw and a jig to get close - then a case trimmer to get right on (0.898"). And a mouth deburring tool to take of the burrs! MUCH less recoil loading a 160 to 175 grain bullet, which is now fairly easy to find! I've used both of those powders. Crimp tightly. Good luck, GJ
  21. Griff - yeah, that is a REAL fat nosed slug. And poly coating it just makes it a couple thousandths fatter. There is a reamer that will long-taper the leade in 1911 barrels to help you if you really want to shoot that slug. But otherwise, get a smaller nose on the slug. Accurate Molds has a couple of truncated cone mold designs that are really nice in the .45 auto. I shoot the 45-200E a lot. And when I want a 230 grain slug, the 45-230E, good luck, GJ
  22. Same discussion (just about) from a week ago: http://www.sassnet.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=258793&hl=laser Have Drifter (Old West Laser Graphics) or some other laser expert cut you some standard checkering on the forearm with their laser setup. Much faster and almost always quite a bit cheaper than true cut checkering. But just as effective at keeping your hand from slipping. If his prices are about the same as last work I got done, expect about $75. http://oldwestlasergraphic.com/ http://oldwestlasergraphic.com/Checkering.html Also: http://www.chuckaroos.com/
  23. http://www.gunstockduplicating.com/duplication.html In Pennsylvania, USA
  24. That Cimarron (Colt 1878) gun is the same as the TTN hammered double. Stoutest and actually the fastest hammer double to shoot for most cowboys. Go for it. You will be in good company. Good luck, GJ
  25. There's also the amount of storage space and infrastructure support that letting users upload photos and videos requires - such as, a photo upload that is never deleted or cleaned up after a few months would stay on SASS's disk storage forever. And there's the legal ramifications if folks were to upload illegal content to be shared with other people. Porn, copyrighted materials, hate materials, etc. Takes a TON of policing of what folks try to upload onto sharing services. In general, it's much more appropriate to have shared media on a professional web service. But as Google Phot
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.