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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Everything posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. Medical examiners get to rule cause of death. That's the way most jurisdictions handle death certificates. When that seems to be illogical to someone, I'd suggest they lobby to change the laws or the person in the examiner's position. Good luck, GJ
  2. Well, individual guns need the gap that they need. Rugers are different in the barrel-to-cylinder gap required than are most of the SAA clones. The lube strategy being used with BP loads varies a lot from shooter to shooter. So, declaring that there is exactly one right answer, or that other answers are horse feathers, is not well supported by lots of shooters' practical experience. Adjust your guns to what you need, how often you want to have to clean off the cylinder face, and what lube you are wanting to use. Good luck, GJ
  3. Love the RCBS powder lock-out die so much - use them on all of my Dillon 550s, even though it means I have to use a combination seater/crimp die. For me, yes, a case powder "alarm" (lock-out in my case) HAS saved me several no charge and even a few double-charge rounds over the last 10 years. Well worth it. good luck, GJ
  4. Only Ginger still is alive from the 3 Hour Cruise.
  5. Think you mean the last 1/4" the action WON'T fall open. That is where the hammer cockers are doing their work. The cocking levers need to be adjusted so it occurs earlier, easier and one side then the other cocks (to spread the effort out so both barrels don't cock at one time). And you need to ensure the action still has a spring buffer as the action stops, or you will slam the action parts hard enough to damage them when the action goes full open. That can be kinda tricky to get right. 1 - you don't have spare parts to put in if you damage a part (go to far with grinding m
  6. It's an Eibar. Spanish double. Likely made 20 years ago or more. The trigger guard will have a "captive" screw (welded or soldered) at the front, on the part of the guard that meets up with the bottom of receiver. It will typically be fairly large diameter. Like about 3/8" As you rotate the trigger guard counter-clockwise, the trigger guard starts to easily clear the wood and lift away from the receiver. The first rotation is hard to perform without gouging either the stock or the receiver metal. Go slowly and carefully. This is a common design on side-by-sides.
  7. EOT and I believe WR stage writers submit theirs for final approval before the shooter's handbooks go to print. Saves lots of headaches with trying to make sure the shooters all know exactly how to shoot the stages. And makes sure the layout of targets and the planned shooter movement fits with the fixed props that some stages have. If that is what you HAVE to do, then it's what you have to DO. Perhaps you could ask what safety policies they will be checking the stages against. Always easier if you know what they will allow and not allow before you turn in the stage
  8. Try ten thousandths longer, not one hundred thousandths longer! As a decimal, that is 0.010" (not 0.100")
  9. You won't really know that there is no screw under the front lip of the trigger guard until you try to rotate the trigger guard as if you are unscrewing it by rotating around the front tip of the guard.
  10. Your first clue - there is no large hole in the butt stock where a "through bolt" is threaded into receiver. That means the butt stock is held onto the receiver by wood screws through the upper and lower tangs, usually. As RC says, push the break-open lever over to the right and a large screw head will appear there. CAREFULLY remove it. It is usually a hard screw to remove the first time. This is a great time to use a closely fitting screw driver tip and a small hand impact driver. Why not tell us the brand/model of gun you are working on? It helps a lot.
  11. Try trading to another pard in your area who reloads, for LP primers. By being "longer" than LP primers, if you put them in a .45 Colt case, they stick up quite a bit above the case head, and will bind revolvers (keep them from rotating) and could fire out of battery in lever rifles. Good luck, GJ
  12. Buying firearms in short inventory times (like now) usually leads me to not being very satisfied with what I end up with. Thus, during this time period, I'm not doing any firearms purchasing. You may be easier to please than I am. I really do believe we will recover back to being able to buy recreational firearms pretty quickly, once folks get back to work. Defense firearms - that may take a bit longer. Good luck, GJ
  13. For BP with Rugers - My target has been 0.008" gap with cylinder shoved forward to take up slack. With good lube, that will usually let you run at least 6 stages before cylinder starts dragging. (For smokeless Rugers, more like 0.004") Good luck, GJ
  14. No. But I HAVE seen several Uberti's with so much rust in the steel mag tube that the shooter could not continue the match because rounds would hang up in the tube. I believe that carbon-fiber tube mod was designed to solve both potential problems. Good luck, GJ
  15. Fee-fie-faux-fannie. The hand doing the cocking has to remain in contact with the revolver or support hand. If it's "flying around," it's fanning. Good luck, GJ
  16. The extended primer slide bearing plate for the Dillon 550. No more primer slide hangups! Thanks, UniqueTek! Good luck, GJ
  17. A 4" high small-end target is REALLY hard to hit when the stand is set back at about 5 yards. (Closer invites lots of splatter hitting shooter and posse because the targets do not have the normal 10 degree forward tilt that forces most bullet splatter downward) The commercially-built tombstone rack used at EOT has targets that range from about 14" high, down to about 7" high. That can be cleaned quickly by good shooters when set at about 5 yards to the close end of rack. When set at 8 yards away, considerably fewer shooters can hit the smallest target. Good luc
  18. I got very accurate drops of TiteGroup from my Dillon small charge bar (back when I used to run TG powder). Now I run WST, and get perhaps even better accuracy on those drops (both around 4 grains). Clean the bar and the funnel/drop area with isopropyl alcohol to make sure nothing greasy or sticky has built up in the measure or the expander/drop tube area. Make SURE you are getting full travel in both directions of the bar. It's easy to get the linkage out of adjustment, to have the link holding screws loosen, or not have a little bit of light oil in the linkage mechanism, and
  19. Even if it detonates, there is little that contains the pressure, so the anvil or cup can't develop much velocity. It would be more exciting if you have loose powder around the loader when the primer fires, though. Tried blowing it out with a fine tube on the end of an air gun (compressor attachment? Blowing air into a closed chamber often makes enough turbulence to lift out a small part. Tried dismounting the press, taking off the die head and any other loose parts, and banging the press frame into a bench? Good luck, GJ
  20. Same as always, stick to SAAMI level factory loads in any toggle action rifle. No +P or other ammo that exceeds SAAMI pressure levels. Uberti and Miroku both proof to the SAAMI and CIP pressure limits. Good luck, GJ
  21. If you are shooting more than about 2,000 shotgun rounds a month, then I think the PW and Spolar progressives earn a place on your workbench (and in your wallet). It takes a LOT of cowboy shooting to support the cost of one of these jewels. For 500 to about 3,000 rounds per month, my choices would be a Mec 9000 or the RCBS Grand or (what I run) a Hornady 366 . All five of these will make a shell as good as factory, with a smoothly-rolled finished crimp that feeds quickly in pumps and doubles. Less than 500 a month can be the territory for a Mec Grabber.
  22. If that really has been true over the years, then you are measuring various after-market light weight springs. Good luck, GJ
  23. So, first off, replace the factory lever safety spring with a much lower profile "torsion" (AKA mousetrap) spring. It really lightens the last part of the lever closing stroke. That will get rid of the springs interfering with each other. Someone arced that main spring to have more bow than normal. That should have been caught at the factory. Main reason for thinner main springs would be to have a lighter lever stroke. I could see Uberti putting that in a youth model. In a carbine - less reason, but there is less gun weight in the carbine, so perhaps they are aware tha
  24. Another vote - keep the turret. But I would upgrade to some nicer 45-70 dies - ones made of steel and that have real lock rings. The RCBS Cowboy dies are a little pricey, but have an expander button that makes belling enough for lead bullet seating easy. Good luch, GJ
  25. When I think of (bigger than small game) hunting, it's with a bolt action rifle. Savage and Ruger make some very affordable rifles (sub $300 even) in light center fire cartridges. .243 has long been a favorite of mine, 6.5 Creedmore is the hot ticket now, of course. My guess is with the modern mods like the fiber optic sight, and the limited mag capacity (meaning some reloading on most stages on the clock), you won't be either legal or satisfied with the BBX. Sorta like bridging the 14' creek with a piece of 12' lumber - it doesn't quite get there on either end.
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