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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Everything posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. Trail Boss may or may not be made in the future. It was made by ADI (or whatever that company is now) in Australia. Rather a difficult powder to make, and expensive, and other than Cowboy and 300 Blackout shooters, there is not a lot of demand to restart production after both manufacturing and environmental law problems came up. V V could not sell enough Tin Star to make it worthwhile. Another Cowboy niche powder. Forget it. Trying to find an elusive Swiss made smokeless right now? Fugget-about-it. If you want a European made powder, contact Scarlet and ask about her line of imported powders, There are 20 or so powders made that make a nice Cowboy load. Some (as explained above) can still be bought. With possible supply shortages continuing into the future, I'd advise picking one of the common "fast pistol" or even a "12 gauge shotgun" powder and buying to build a stockpile to carry you forward for a while. This is not the time to "try to be different." good luck, GJ
  2. Also use an eyeball and feel test to compare how fast the hammer falls on your .357 rifle and your .45 Colt. If the 45 is a lot slower, then you don't have enough spring force (or have too much drag on the hammer) to get a good hammer fall. Even after putting a new spring in. GJ
  3. The little chunk missing from the barrel at the extractor cut is not causing you failure-to-fire problems. That breaks out sometimes because the extractor cut is made so the very back edge is paper thin, and any hard contact of the extractor nose and the ramp cut can cause that chip. It could be polished with a small dremel cutter or polishing tip to take the rough edge off if it bothers you. You do NOT need a new barrel because of that. Can you take a picture of the rear of a couple of cases showing the primer on those FTF rounds. That will give a sense of how much firing pin hit you are getting. Was the firing pin broken into two pieces or is the tip broken off and missing? (Sounds like you replaced the FP, but was it "solid" and appeared undamaged when you replaced it?) Have you cleaned the FP channel in the bolt really well with a solvent and a pipe cleaner? Crud builds up in there and keeps the FP (even a new one) from going full forward.. Have you had an Out Of Battery firing about the time you noted the beginning of FTF problems? That could indicate a bent lever happened due to the OOB - that is very common, and it usually opens up headspace a little. Take a picture of the wrist of the action where the lever fits up against the lower tang to show us how much if any gap remains when you hold the action closed. Since you have a 357 lever, can you take that out and lay it over the lever of your problem gun and see if the noses (where link pin installs) of the levers and the hand loop of the levers line up between the two? Ideally, the lever should be closing tightly against the lower tang. You wrote: That description is not very meaningful. Do you mean there is some forward and rearward movement of the bolt when action is closed, or do you mean side to side movement? Slight side to side movement is pretty common. Forward and back could be a sign of some wear in links or lever or pins. Several parts makers offer an extended length firing pin. That would be probably the cheapest replacement part which you might try to see if you have too short a FP protrusion. The SLIXsprings firing pin is one of those that come "a little longer" than factory spec. Long Hunter Supply as them in stock. Some comparisons with one of my Uberti 73s that run .45 Colt without ANY FTF problems. The headspace between a chambered case head and the bolt face, with action closed, measures 0.014". Feeler gauge method. Firing just a primer in a case also sets the primer back about 0.012" as another rough way to check headspace. It's a few years old and has typical wear and no OOB occurrences. That amount of headspace is no where near enough to cause FTF due to light strikes even with the factory firing pin. David Chicone's reference book, Gunsmithing Guns of the Old West, calls out a head space of 0.006" for a new (Winchester-made) gun or when rebuilding a bolt. Ubertis I would expect to be about the same. The firing pin protrusion can be checked roughly without taking the gun apart, too. Open the action half way. Keep the bolt from moving forward with a pin punch or similar tool held against the bolt face. Push firmly on the firing pin extension, and the FP will travel it's full stroke forward. Comparing that protrusion to the cartridge support tab (which should be about 0.065" forward of the bolt face), should let you see if you have 10, 20 30, or 40 thousandths. 30 thousandths works real well in my guns. For the most part, it sounds like you have been throwing parts at the gun before finding out what the problem is. I'd suggest more inspection, measuring, checking before you buy any more parts. If you can't do that, then letting an experienced smith take it over is going to be the fastest way to make this right. good luck, GJ
  4. Yes, as EOT matured at FR, we evolved to having our Boy Scouts hustling after every shooter's turn. Took more work with the boys keeping them moving quickly, but more shooters were satisfied by getting their own brass back. Only a really slow posse would be warned about "being slow" and perhaps not have brass picked immediately. And that freed the award ceremony from having to do a brass auction, too. Just so many things to recommend getting the brass back immediately. That does take partitioning the bays with berms to allow travel forward of the firing line, of course. good luck, GJ
  5. EOT was "lost brass" when held at Founders Ranch too. At least for the cowboy match part. Collected between posses by Boy Scouts and 4H too. good luck, GJ
  6. Take off the forearm and look on the barrel where the forearm covers it up. That's a common place for Uberti's. Never seen any marked on the receiver. good luck, GJ
  7. The main trick for shooting cast bullets in a 6.5 Swede with good accuracy is to keep the muzzle velocity close to 1600 FPS. It's got a very fast twist rate designed for long-for-caliber jacketed bullets. I accuracy load to 1600 FPS with a White Label XLOX lube applied with a Lyman 450, and yes, gas checks applied while sizing. Bullets often give poor results down at 1400 FPS or so. And get to stripping out of the rifling at much faster than 1700 FPS unless really hard cast. I've not gotten good accuracy even with careful loading, when using Unique. Can't find much load data with Unique, but I'd guess 11.5 grains would get you 1600 FPS. That checks with my QuickLoad interior ballistics calculator. QuickLoad says to get 1400 FPS would take 9 grains of Unique, but you may not like it's accuracy. My practical experience is to use AA 5744 or SR 4759 (of course, that powder has not been made for 15 years). 16 grains of 5744 and the Lyman 140 grain 266469 bullet cast to about 16 Brinnell hardness has given me a load that shoots under 1 1/2 inches at 100 yards. Yes, neck sizing only will work very well with low pressure cast bullet loads! Stripper clips were VERY available 5-10 years ago when the large dump of Swedish Mausers into the US occurred. Here's one vendor on Amazon that has clips I have used successfully: https://www.amazon.com/STRIPPER-SWEDISH-MAUSER-Northridge-International/dp/B01J6SIKMG 30-06 clips just don't seem to be a nice fit on the 6.5 Swede case rim. So, the Swede is a great rifle, but not a gun that is easy to shoot as a low speed plinker. Keep speeds up around 1600 FPS and you can get great results with some work. Of course, accuracy when shooting cast bullets varies between rifles, lubes, loading techniques, etc. Take all these suggestions with a "grain of flux". good luck, GJ
  8. OP is trying to find handgun loads. Not shotshell. There's lots of data now available for that. good luck, GJ
  9. You wanting to make cowboy (gallery) loads, or full-power factory type loads? It's made of about the same ingredients and technology and plant as TiteGroup, so it will PROBABLY make good cowboy loads with a little less charge weight than TiteGroup. Since it may be years before Hodgdon decides to publish more cowboy level load data, like most powders used for our sport, you are kind of on your own. Start what you think is low level, take a squib rod and go out to the range and do the testing. If you are thinking about full-power loads, I would CERTAINLY call the Hodgdon tech support line and ask for any data they may already have. They will either help you work something up, or they may "take notes" that you would like to see some data in the future and perhaps put it on the "to be tested" list. My guess - They will be somewhat reluctant to test it as a handgun powder when they designed it to be a shotgun powder, but they have done the "expansion of suitability" testing the other way with TiteGroup in the last year (from handgun to shotgun). They will probably NEVER test a Cowboy 45 Special loading. But you probably realize that. I have used it in tons of sporting clays shotshell loads (12 gauge 1 ounce) for the last 2 years where it does perform very well - about a match to Red Dot or slightly faster. If all this sounds like too much hassle, then buy some TiteGroup. It's widely available, and lots of us have shot TiteGroup in cowboy loads for years. good luck, GJ
  10. From the pictures Willie took, I would think he installed TWO spring pins, one to help hold the top half in place, and one to act as a guide rod in the lower half. I see two spring pins in his. I think the way the Russians built them was with just the extractor rod (bottom) and one guide rod at the top. good luck, GJ
  11. Mine is a Spartan variation of the mp-220. It only has the top and bottom (large) extractor rods. Not two small and the large bottom rod. So, perhaps that will make a difference in how the work gets done. good luck, GJ
  12. Yes, that model responds well to the modification. I can't guarantee that a single rod supports the remainder without it twisting, not having done one of those jobs. So Lefty should take a close look at the main extractor rod to see how it resists rotation as it opens. A brief inspection of mine shows the extractor rod is round and not keyed in any manner. So it may be necessary to move the upper thin rod down to a convenient spot closer to the main rod. My gun was modified by a smith years ago and all that he did was to whittle away the upper ears of the extractor so that the shell is only touched by extractor from mid point (between the barrels) down and around to straight down. 90 degrees of contact. Has worked wonderfully for me and a previous shooter too. good luck, GJ
  13. The chemistry of the process more correctly is that cotton (or wood pulp) fibers are nitrated to make nitrocellulose. The old name of NC was gun cotton, which is where someone may have confused the two. That nitration is done in China (major manufacturer), Russia and India, in large part. None of which are really wanting to ship the nitrocellulose to us currently. It's the powder maker who then buys bulk nitrocellulose to manufacture smokeless powder by adding extra ingredients then shaping and drying and packing. So, it's not really a shortage of cotton. It's due to lack of the US having nitration facilities anymore - except for the Radford Army Ordinance plant. Which is being modernized and expanded by BAE Systems. You can read a brief on it here: https://www.baesystems.com/en-us/feature/radford-moves-to-commissioning-phase-of-a-new-nitrocellulose-facility And the markets not wanting/able to ship us bulk nitrocellulose. good luck, GJ
  14. Load the Bear Creek like you do your current bullets. Test fire the first 20 or so. If you like it, keep going. If you or wife THINK the recoil is higher now, drop 0.2 grains of powder and load some more. Differences in two bullets of same weight are hard to tell at the velocities and pressures we load! OAL for revolver loads only worries me when I load stuff within 10% of a maximum load - cowboy is certainly not there. OAL for feeding function in a lever rifle - now that is a SERIOUS concern! good luck, GJ
  15. I'm trying to help another shooter right now make light loads on his Dillon SL900 - it's a pain! I don't own one. I don't recommend one when there are easier machines to run for loaders who don't have much experience. Thanks, but I think its a tough machine that does not run on the same engineering principles as most other shotshell loaders, which really makes it tough for a shooter to move up to it. What I give other shooters here is advice based on my experiences.....that is what it is. And my mileage does vary from yours. good luck, GJ
  16. I've used a Bair HoneyBair, a Mec 600 Jr, an RCBS MiniGrand, a Mec Grabber, and now a Hornady 366. For what is needed for almost all pards shooting cowboy only, a Mec 600 Jr is hard to beat. Easy to set up, easy to learn, easy to adjust to a different load if you want to, reliable, light weight. I'm using the 366 because I got it at a bargain price, rebuilt it, and now it's run like a tank for the last 15 years! But I ask it to make about 2500 shells a month for Sporting Clays, Wild Bunch and Cowboy. Buying a new one right now is like opening your wallet at the Audi dealership, though. Find one used if you want one. If you are buying for a few shoots a month, 50 shots max each, then the MEC 600 Jr is plenty of loader. Reasonable price, especially if you find a lightly used one. If shooting only 3/4 ounce loads in 12 gauge, the only major loader I would stay away from is the Dillon SL900. It just does not have enough range of adjustment in the wad seating operation to handle very light loads like cowboys use. And it's a complex machine. And due to the amount of plastic parts on it, I would avoid an RCBS Grand (I hear they are close to or already discontinued at the factory, as well). If you are heavier into shotgunning, then a high volume "progressive" press that runs more than one shell in the shell plate at a time is often worth it. But some may not be real adaptable to low noise low recoil type loads. If that is your type of shooting, generally better advise on the Spolars/Ponsness Warrens/ etc can be found on the competitive shotgunning forums like Shotgun World or Trap Shooters. So, since SO much of the decision ought to hinge on your volume of shooting, your level of experience with reloading, and the variety of shells/loads you intend to make, and you have told us nothing about those items, can't recommend going to more expensive machines for most cowboys. Run a Mec 600 Jr like a lot of us do. If you run that one to death in a couple years, then you can reconsider your next choice then. good luck, GJ
  17. Or the trigger tip may have broken off or chipped. That is even more fragile than the full-cock notch on the hammer. This can happen if you pull the trigger hard enough with the hammer at half-cock. good luck, GJ
  18. The top groove is called a crimp groove, since it has a different shape of groove than a lube groove. But the ammo looks great. To hijack a publishers' slogan - "If it feeds, it leads." You don't need our approval. Hope that's not what you were looking for when you asked for "help" good luck, GJ
  19. Or one can place the hex locking ring of the die in the jaws of the vise and not have any contact on the threads of the die body by the vise jaws.... It takes a BIG vise to hold the die head of a Dillon press. And it's an expensive part made of aluminum - not something to beat on. GJ
  20. Yeah, I take the die out of my Dillon 550 and chuck it up in my bench vise (with heavy brass jaws) where I can whale away as needed. good luck, GJ
  21. Disassemble with the gun inside a cardboard box. Parts which try to escape are normally caught and dropped to the bottom of the box. The more valuable or necessary the gun, the more important to "box it" good luck, GJ
  22. But, sometimes you just need to give up on the real weak search that the forum software provides and use a search tool that is powerful. To do this, open a browser window, and using a Google search page, enter: site:sassnet.com stoeger choke tubes This REALLY gives you the advantage of using one of the most powerful ways to search, and to focus the search just on one web site (like SASS's web site). So this returns a bunch of threads that have asked the same question of "what tubes does a Stoeger use?" https://forums.sassnet.com/index.php?/topic/164396-screw-in-chokes-for-stoeger/ https://forums.sassnet.com/index.php?/topic/240620-chokes-for-the-stoeger-supreme/ Hmmm - seems OP asked this same question almost 9 years ago. https://forums.sassnet.com/index.php?/topic/256297-stoeger-supreme-coach-gun-choke-question/ https://forums.sassnet.com/index.php?/topic/295144-shotgun-chokes-for-cas-target-distances/ etc I don't know if this works with other search tools, but it would be easy to try out, if you have a dislike of Google search. good luck, GJ
  23. I searched in our forum, and quickly found a post from last December that has the same answer, too. The search function takes a little practice to make it work for you. Since you want to see posts that talked about Stoeger choke tubes, I made my search terms in the search field (top of every forum frame) look for the terms "Stoeger + choke" Just a "Stoeger choke" search would require the two words to be found exactly next to each other to be shown as a match (not what most multi-word searches ought to do, but that is the way the Invision forum software has been programmed). So, you need a plus sign between terms that do not have to be exactly adjacent, but should be present somewhere in the same original post or any reply. good luck, GJ
  24. No! HCl will dissolve the steel almost as fast as the brass. Don't try that. I've NEVER stuck ANY brass case (rifle cases are the toughest) that could not be removed by use of a stuck case remover. Never EVER really lean on a press handle if a case does not resize! Stop and find out what the problem is (usually lack of lubricant or filthy die or case). And, OP, I reload every month of the year. I shoot every month of the year. I have time every month of the year. So I use it to reload. good luck, GJ
  25. But searching the various choke tube manufacturers sites QUICKLY shows you the correct answer: Carlson's web site (choketubes.com) shows you what chokes install in most every shotgun. Your Stoeger Coach Supreme takes: Stoeger Coach Supreme Uplander (Side by Side) Shotguns Interchanges with Carlson's Winchester, Browning Invector & Mossberg 500 style threads Trulock Chokes says that for a Stoeger 12 gauge Coach gun: interchanges with Trulock’s Win-Brn-Moss style. That is, the Winchester, Browning Invector or the Mossberg 500 style tubes. SERIOUSLY doubt a Remington RemChoke style choke tube will fit. good luck, GJ
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