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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Everything posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. It's such a simple job for a gunsmith to get right, and hard enough to explain (when you add in the 5 degree toe-in angle to keep the muzzle slightly down when the gun is mounted to your shoulder) that your best bet is probably to visit a smith who knows cowboy guns. Cowboy Carty sounds like he would be close to you. Actually, grinding the pad is the TOUGH part. The videos may make it look easy, but most folks ruin their first pad (or even two) as they sand them down. Now, if you want to proceed on your own, here's one of many ways that work. Figure out what Length of Pull yo
  2. I don't like gunsmiths using the term "cleaned up" when they mean they have to remove metal. It misleads the shooting public into thinking problems with machining are always "just a cleanup". Without pictures, it's hard to say what the fix will have to be, but if you are gouging brass just chambering a round, it's going to be a gunsmith job! Ok, with that out of the way. If there is a gouge below the surface of where the chamber walls should be, that's really tough to remove. A new barrel, a barrel reline or a chamber reline (which isn't done often) are obvious ways to give the barrel
  3. Lacquer finish on a gun stock will be prone to water discoloring, solvent attack, and will be rather brittle. Great on furniture that will be indoors (except bar or table tops where exposed to alcohol) though. Much better to use TruOil or Linspeed when doing stocks. Just refinished a Swedish Mauser (lots of wood with that 29" barrel) - three coats in three days without ArmorAll. Just a couple drops of Japan Dryer in with the tablespoon of oil. Good luck, GJ
  4. Been running an RCBS vibratory bowl heavily for about 8 years now. The trick on that one (and most others) - at least each year, take the darn thing apart, clean and lube the bronze bushings with a good lube (Royal Purple gun oil is what I have used), blow out all the media dust, then reassemble all the stinking little screws and bolts. When it slows a little, it's time for the clean and lube. Put that off, and the bearing and then motor will burn up. Good luck, GJ
  5. Don't leave brass in any of the solutions mentioned above for more than the time it takes to dissolve the carbonates and sulfates that are the residue in the cases. The fasting acting corrosion cleaner I have found (by experiment with solutions plumbers use for cutting scale off plumbing fixtures) is: Quart water 2 tablespoons vinegar 1 tablespoon crystalline sulfamic acid (a grout cleaner from Home Depot or Lowes or tile stores) Warm this to as hot as you can stand to handle. Use thin latex or nitrile gloves. Place corroded brass in solution JUST long enough to stop bubbling -
  6. Full wadcutter ammo is not used in CAS for a couple of reasons . If bullet is BELOW flush with end of case, it's illegal by rule. Won't feed well through lever or pump guns. Made to be shot in target revolvers. Good luck, GJ (Exact measurement correction applied)
  7. 'Bout the best Christmas Blessings ever! Life is full of wondrous Gifts! Amen, GJ
  8. Rye Whiskey - Knob Creek Rye is not hard to choke down. Prefer Russell's Reserve 6 year old, though. Ditto the remarks on the CR Rye - way too mild mannered - no character. For Scotch - Talisker. No question.
  9. And another document of the same place and time. Headquarters 101st Airborne Division Office of the Division Commander 24 December 1944 What's Merry about all this, you ask? We're fighting - it's cold - we aren't home. All true but what has the proud Eagle Division accomplished with its worthy comrades of the 10th Armored Division, the 705th Tank Destroyer Battalion and all the rest? Just this: We have stopped cold everything that has been thrown at us from the North, East, South and West. We have identifications from four German Panzer Divisions, two German Infantry Divisions and on
  10. Hey, Johnny! Merry Christmas pard! Yep, ED has been very helpful on this transaction. GJ
  11. Nope, it's a linseed oil base. See the Birchwood Casey web site. Another similar finish is Linspeed Oil. Another linseed oil with a dryer agent added. Both very nice. Just be careful about storing any rags that have the oil on them. They can get hot enough to spontaneously ignite and burn down your work area! Good luck, GJ
  12. You'll pay hobbs before you get a 25# bag for $25 when commodity lead price is close to a buck a pound, like it is now. That $25 a sack came from 35 to 50 cent lead.
  13. I'm still getting virgin shot for $38 a bag from local supplier down the street. Guess things could be worse.
  14. ED - I'd like that 28" Daly. I'll PM you for address, arrange funds, etc. Figure your shipping costs to my FFL holder in Albuquerque NM, please. Thanks! GJ
  15. A search of the forums would have found this topic, same question as yours: http://www.sassnet.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=254756&hl=%2B45+%2Bspecial+%2Bbrass The address and phone to contact American Cowboy Ammo is in the topic discussion. Scroll down. You will find it is slightly expensive, but they have the exclusive rights to have Starline manufacture the brass. Good luck, GJ
  16. Prayers up for "the old man". Ted is a great pard to shoot with and swap lies with as well. May the medicos work efficiently and skillfully, and may recovery be a breeze. God Bless, GJ
  17. Sounds exactly like the way that at least West Fargo (bless him!) did short strokes on Vaqs. The transfer bar usually comes out for lots of reasons, to increase reliability and reduce cocking force, as well as letting the stroke be shortened by moving the full-cock notch. When the transfer bar is out, then you need to extend the face of hammer to be able to hit the firing pin. Light springs are not REQUIRED, but no one wants a short-stroke that is still running heavy springs. And, the geometry of how the pawl is driven off the hammer stroke has to be modified to get complete rotation
  18. Single ACTION Shooting Society - it just takes action to shoot with us, not necessarily any guns when you start. The only pards missing out on "savoring," are the pards not coming out. Good luck, GJ
  19. You won't get much lower cost loading your own shells than the pricing of factory shotshells. BUT, you can get lower recoil and the satisfaction of loading your own from cranking out shotshells. Look for the lowest price you can on shot. That is the price driver. If you have a local trap/skeet/clays club, check with them for deals on shot. Even reclaimed shot works great for SASS. By far the easiest, widely available powder to make a low-recoil 1 ounce load is Hodgdon Clays (or Clay Dot from Alliant). Both are now starting to be available again at most vendors. Combine that with
  20. One can usually get away with bending (reprofiling) the existing hammers. Changing out a hammer, assuming you can find on that will work and has a general shape like guns of the Old West, will probably never be questioned. Knocking off sharp "birds beaks" on hammers to make them safe to run - has been allowed forever. Internal mods like working over or replacing springs - perfectly acceptable per rules. If your gut tells you you're close to the edge of the rules, you can submit a request to the Rules Committee for a ruling on the external mods you are thinking about. That's the on
  21. Winchester's primer pockets are often just slightly tighter than other US made brass. I've seen the same on .45 Colt and .38 special. The second time, you are paying a lot more attention to seating that primer firmly. That time, it goes in. Good luck, GJ
  22. The OP may WANT a highly customized gun. He may not be able to get that from ANYONE that we know about. He may not even be able to GET it at all. When a feller asks for advice on this wire, and the advice is given, and it's not necessarily what he wants to hear, but it may be what he needs to hear, there's not a real good reason to complain about it. Folks are not saying it CAN'T be done, we are saying we don't know smiths willing to take on the task. Most of the smiths we know, do "simple modifications to cowboy guns for men who want to shoot fast." (To paraphrase Nick in It's a W
  23. Yep, that can work too. Prepare 50 bins. But it also means you have to track the loaded cartridges with a label, too. The bookkeeping may make you depressed. Have some Christmas Cheer! I'd buy you one if I were in Illowa! GJ But then, I am an Illdianatucky native myself. Winter depression seemed the norm when I was back there.
  24. ^ | | IMHO, Some of the worst advice for loading ammo that I have seen on this wire. (If you take this advice literally) Loading C45S to the same loading data and pressures as standard .45 auto loads - will be above the pressure rating for SAA clones! And you will have way too much recoil. Drop down to light .45 auto rim load data and you will be more likely to get the light recoil that C45S was designed to provide! For example, a light .45 auto load I make for Wild Bunch, uses a 200 grain bullet and let's say, 5 grains of "an appropriate" pistol powder. What I load with th
  25. But, Miroku makes, in Japan, a VERY fine '73 at the same prices as Uberti. A US manufacturer could do it too if they were willing and able to front the machine and tooling and engineering costs. So, don't really buy that cost of labor argument. Good luck, GJ
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