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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Everything posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. No, what you have been told is those cleaners will soften and remove varnish or most other stock finishes. Keep it off the wood. Shotgunners usually even pop the barrel(s) off the gun so there is little chance of damaging stock finish. As LG mentioned, use it outdoors. The chemicals in those cleaners are HARD on the lungs! Brake cleaner is slightly less aggressive than carb cleaner - but either will work for removing plastic or powder residue from shotgun barrels. Will not remove copper or lead fouling from rifle or revolver barrels very well. Bore cleaners are better there! G
  2. All sounds about like normal fire forming process except there's no need to point muzzle up when firing. Other fireforming technique - get a supply of the cheapest slugs you can, load a light load of Red Dot or Unique (see Lyman loading manual) (plinking load), fire them. Examine first one or two to make sure you are not stretching the case down at the base, and that you have enough powder for full case expansion in the shoulder. Most of the reloading manuals should have instructions for fireforming cases. Good luck, GJ
  3. Price has climbed in the last few weeks as well.
  4. The best advice is always - "Try out Cowboy guns at several local matches before you buy even one". The opinions you almost always get here are what each individual likes best. That may or may not come close to your real needs. We are very willing at local matches to loan out guns and ammo to let you try things out before you start the buying process. Now, what are a fair number of duelists running for their guns and cartridges? The Ruger Vaquero is more used than any other revolver "platform" in Cowboy shooting. Lots of duelists with large hands then specialize the platfor
  5. Nope, lots of categories right now. If ammo cost is holding you back, reload your own cast bullets. Pards in the old west did not go to gunfights armed with 22s. The game is what it is, and probably will stay there for a while. We would welcome you, and as stated above, local matches will probably carve out a special category to let you shoot as you start up in the game. Good luck, GJ
  6. Ditto on trying to look period with shooting glasses. There WERE no shooting glasses back in the day. And the small lenses that movies show folks wearing provide almost NO protection. Cowboy shooters get lots of lead back in the face! You don't want it in the eye. ESS ICE model is what I use. Prescription inserts. Hi-contrast orange/rose or gray shields depending upon how bright. I'm standard eye (R eye, R shooting) dominant and need "bifocal" type correction - I do it with master eye set to focus on front sight of rifle, weak eye set for distance. This makes the lenses single vis
  7. Oops, yeah, the OP is talking a rifle, isn't he? Well, details of the guns are totally different (really?), but my conclusion still stands - I wouldn't be shooting (BP or smokeless) something I paid a premium for because of a "Colt signature finishing step" If it completes a collection, go for it. If you are going to be shooting it, then asking here is a reasonable thing to do, but not a place where you will convince many pards that shooting a BP rifle won't drop any "special" value off of it real quick. Good luck, GJ
  8. May be why the whole Signature concept, of an Italian parts gun put together here and priced at three times what a "shooting" C&B revolver was, never took off. Priced like collector's gun, but mostly the quality of a shooter. As I said, would not be my cup of tea. I'd have it going to a smith right out of the shipping box to tune for competition if I had one. And there would go the specialness of it. GJ
  9. Personally, I wouldn't buy a "special issue" or "commemorative" gun for any shooting in Cowboy action, where I had to pay a premium over the standard model. Once you shoot them, especially with BP, values tumble. "Signature series" types are built for folks who want a nice wall trophy. But then, the "bling" factor of the first few times out might just be worth it to you. Only your and your wallet know for sure. Good luck, GJ
  10. In NM, almost all matches less important than club annuals, or state matches, no longer serve any. Pretty simple if you do that. At annuals and states, you have almost all shooters signed up a few weeks ahead (so that awards can be made), so planning food to come out right is easy. Good luck, GJ
  11. Over the shoulder - makes it a bandoleer rather than a belt. Rules treat the two very differently. Good luck, GJ
  12. Try this - Marshal Harland Wolff, SASS #5019(you can PM him by searching for his profile, and sending a private message. He still does a little gunsmithing.) A web page for him: http://www.onsp.us/Profiles/5019.html Shotgun Boogie originally from Germany, now from Southern California. Does a lot of gunsmithing. Good luck, GJ
  13. Ditto on 20" octagonal barrel, straight grip stock. It's what is cheapest. It's what is most commonly in stock. It's fast and fairly light without getting whippy and sliding past targets when you have to shift aim. It fits through most doorways and windows nicely. It doesn't need a 6'4" football star to get it quickly into action. Get a 20" octagonal straight grip, but only after you try it and decide you like it. Just because all the other lemmings pards have one, doesn't mean you will like it. But then, I've got 3 and wish the other one was the same 20" straight grip, too.
  14. Clumsy, heavy, hard to find leather for, and a tough trigger pull. Otherwise, have fun. Good luck, GJ
  15. Strong enough to let you bruise yourself if you ever try to break it with .45 Colt rounds. Yes, it's strong. It's the vertical locking bolt design that makes it so. Can be, will depend upon how well that particular lifter arm was tuned. If it's not, NKJ can sure slick it up, as can several other pards. Nope, it will never be good enough to shoot one hole 5 shot groups at 100 yards (that would be, in my book, superb accuracy). Now, will it be enough to satisfy YOU? You haven't told us what you would be satisfied with. 5" groups? Most likely any one of thei
  16. Please keep us updated with the electronics on the Lyman Mag 25. I've read TONS of reviews saying those just do not hold up well, and they get replaced with a bolt on PID controller after a year or two. And mine don't, unless I have Ca contaminated alloy that cools in the nozzle. As always, mileage varies. Thanks, GJ
  17. Had an old Lyman bottom pour back in the 70s. Like late 50's vintage. Not quite the temperature control I wanted. But a good pot. Lyman not quite making the same quality pots any more, though. Have used two Lee bottom pour pots, both had HORRIBLE temperature control and would never cast without dripping, despite valve grinding compounding the valve and lots of other recommended tinkering. Bought an RCBS Pro-Melt. Lost it to a burglar. Bought a second Pro-Melt. Wonderful temperature control and very minimal dripping problems. Love it so much, got another Pro-Melt for rifle bulle
  18. Thanks to G.E.P Box and K. B. Wilson. A tip of the old statistical hat!
  19. Each gun is different enough that the only way to find which will be "most accurate" is to try the load in your son's gun. Sometimes the loading manual makes a suggestion that turns out to be best in one of my rifles. Often, though, another powder works better for my gun. The data in loading manuals are only compiled from firing loads in one test barrel (in this case, the one barrel that Nosler has). And often that "test firearm" is not a hunting gun, but a test fixture. Good luck, GJ
  20. Work? You're cussin on a family forum? Hope you get that stuff out of the way before winter Range. I was chauffeur for Amber, who came in 2nd overall (behind Henry) and first Cowgirl. My foot is healing up fairly well, still kinda lumpy from taking out a bad nerve and straightening 2 toes. But, hope to be running on it soon and ready for WR.

    See ya soon, pard. GJ

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