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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Everything posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. SOMEONE needs to check the timing on the gun, and the condition of the cartridge support tab on the bolt face! Second, the slot in the chamber face into which the extractor extends when bolt is in battery. The common "breakage" comes from the tip of the extractor slamming into either the case rim or an obstruction. It's hard to wear out a .45 Colt extractor in just a few months. But, yeah, for us to tell you more, we need to know much more - about the gun, about any damage to the broken extractors, what vendor of extractor he's using, how fast and smooth he runs the gun! Good luck
  2. Only have had 1 buy where I had to spend a couple of months running the feller to ground to convince him to send the gun to me. He was a pard on the way out of the game, and I guess it didn't matter much to him what his reputation would be. Probably twenty other transactions with you pards, and every one has been from good to wonderful. Thanks to you all, and keep up the good work. It's the Cowboy Way. WE ARE NOT POST_TRUTH AGE HERE! GJ
  3. Don't get a cap stuck in the works! Best wishes for quick and easy recovery, Dawg. Good luck, GJ
  4. He's relocated recently to the PNW, if I recall. good luck, GJ
  5. Accurate Molds makes several designs that would work well in C45S. In fact, they make a mold that I designed and use. http://www.accuratemolds.com/catalog.php See page 11. 45-150S, 45-160S are good candidates. My design is the 45-175B - accurate in my revolvers. Tom at Accurate will cut the mold to drop .454" or even slightly larger if you want. Since he cuts every mold on order. PMing you my favorite load with 175 grain slug. Several dies can be mixed and matched to load C45Sp. It is easiest with a full 45 Auto Rim die set - the roll crimp die will be included wi
  6. Certainly no inside reaming is needed to shoot in revolvers. And I can't see where it would be needed in rifle either, as the .45 Colt chamber dimensions are VERY large. Chop saw and a jig to get close - then a case trimmer to get right on (0.898"). And a mouth deburring tool to take of the burrs! MUCH less recoil loading a 160 to 175 grain bullet, which is now fairly easy to find! I've used both of those powders. Crimp tightly. Good luck, GJ
  7. Griff - yeah, that is a REAL fat nosed slug. And poly coating it just makes it a couple thousandths fatter. There is a reamer that will long-taper the leade in 1911 barrels to help you if you really want to shoot that slug. But otherwise, get a smaller nose on the slug. Accurate Molds has a couple of truncated cone mold designs that are really nice in the .45 auto. I shoot the 45-200E a lot. And when I want a 230 grain slug, the 45-230E, good luck, GJ
  8. Same discussion (just about) from a week ago: http://www.sassnet.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=258793&hl=laser Have Drifter (Old West Laser Graphics) or some other laser expert cut you some standard checkering on the forearm with their laser setup. Much faster and almost always quite a bit cheaper than true cut checkering. But just as effective at keeping your hand from slipping. If his prices are about the same as last work I got done, expect about $75. http://oldwestlasergraphic.com/ http://oldwestlasergraphic.com/Checkering.html Also: http://www.chuckaroos.com/
  9. http://www.gunstockduplicating.com/duplication.html In Pennsylvania, USA
  10. That Cimarron (Colt 1878) gun is the same as the TTN hammered double. Stoutest and actually the fastest hammer double to shoot for most cowboys. Go for it. You will be in good company. Good luck, GJ
  11. There's also the amount of storage space and infrastructure support that letting users upload photos and videos requires - such as, a photo upload that is never deleted or cleaned up after a few months would stay on SASS's disk storage forever. And there's the legal ramifications if folks were to upload illegal content to be shared with other people. Porn, copyrighted materials, hate materials, etc. Takes a TON of policing of what folks try to upload onto sharing services. In general, it's much more appropriate to have shared media on a professional web service. But as Google Phot
  12. Alloying your own tin/lead is simple. But if you try to find metallic antimony to add to your alloys, it is tough to find and even harder to get it to melt into lead alloys because it is so much higher melting point. The Antimony Man (now passed on I believe) in Sierra Vista Az used to have a special flux and procedure and metallic lump (pure) antimony available. Now, it's just better to get your antimony already alloyed. Linotype is a common antimony source, wheel weights of course have 2-3%, And the hardball 6% antimony is the common commercial bullet casting alloy. Which
  13. It's not the hardness of the finished bullet, as much as the difficulty of getting proper mold fillout when you have 1% zinc (which is what dissolves in most bullet alloys) in the melt. They just get hard to cast. They have to be cast at about 75 - 150 degrees F above normal. This often means you start frosting the bullet surface when you get the alloy hot enough to cast well-filled bullets. Bottom line, zinc in the melt is a BIG headache. Which is kinda making me very hesitant to cast from melted range scrap any longer.... Good luck, GJ
  14. GP has a pretty large learning curve. If you want to be successful at using it, it probably takes about 4 hard hours of sifting thru the limited documentation and forum help available, and trying out on some of your photos. But, I was able to get fairly good at using it in that 4 hours of testing and trying, even without a teenager looking over my shoulder pointing at the next thing to click. But, it too right now does not seem to let you build a link that shows a picture directly in the SASS Wire page. The link it builds seems to be prohibited for display here. But I can put in a l
  15. Brinell testing - I use graphite drawing pencils. From art supply shop, get Pacific Arc or Pro Art pencil set Here's some conversions between useful graphite hardness (the mark on the pencil) to Brinell hardness that works real well: 6B => 5 Brinell (soft lead) 2B => 11 Brinell (just about perfect for SASS) HB => 15 Brinell (hard cast, what Lyman #2 or hard-ball commercial alloy is close to) H => 20 Brinell (linotype) How to use pencils? Find a flat spot on your alloy. Flat nose or base of bullet works best. Hold pencil so the tip can be pushe
  16. Have had real good luck with free (up to lots of photos) Google Photos. Good luck, GJ
  17. Good luck with your casting efforts! It's both easier than most folks think, and harder than it looks. Since you have already been referred to the best learning materials (Fryxell's work and the Lyman Cast bullet Handbook) above, I'll add some quick-start tips. Good, clean alloy of what ever hardness you choose is VERY important. So, never melt down range lead or wheel weights or any metal that is not already real clean and of known content in your casting pot. Get an old cast iron pot and melt "dirty" lead in that, flux and stir until NOTHING will come out of the metal, and cas
  18. Yep. Or one can just leave the spring in and ALWAYS be able to load 6. About 3" of uncompressed spring out the front of the mag tube works fine. Good luck, GJ
  19. Well, replacing the bead in a Uberti front sight might get a little tricky. Don't know that any one knows the shank diameter that is behind an Uberti bead. The usual way of getting a big bead up front is to drift out the old sight and fit and drift in a new one, for maybe $30. A commonly used sight, and one I would recommend from personal use, is the Grabber, available at the Smith Shop http://www.thesmithshop.com/grabber.html You will want a .410 height for the normal Uberti sights on a rifle-type 73. The .130 bead is pretty big, and the .175 bead more like a shotgun bead, B
  20. I'm pretty sure that NK (the OP) can sort out what he gets as answers, though. Good luck, GJ
  21. An exact count would probably be available if you asked in the Wild Bunch forum, but you can pretty well count on no more than 30 pistol, 10 rifle and 6 shotgun per stage, and 12 stages of regular match and 4 stages of warm-up. I'll let you do the math. Rifle has a good chance of being less. Shotgun could be just a couple more - worth taking an extra box or two. And don't forget extra for WB side matches, including clay birds. Which we don't have word about yet. Bring a BAMM rifle if you got it, too. Good luck, see ya there! GJ
  22. So do I. It's not what I recommend for keeping the peace. Good luck, GJ
  23. A 12 Brinnell bullet needs about 10K PSI pressure to obdurate the base into the rifling of the barrel. Almost never will pards get that kind of pressure in a revolver with BP or with subs. Good luck, GJ
  24. Softer shooting. 2F will give less pressure and recoil. Nice in pistols especially if filling the case. good luck, GJ
  25. SOFT SOFT SOFT. No more than Brinnell 8 for my BP bullets that I cast for revolvers and main match rifle loads. About 5 parts soft lead, 1 part COWW and enough tin to get to 0.5%. Good luck, GJ
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