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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Everything posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. Older technology powders are often ALSO a problem. Some of the newer technology with modern deterrents and coatings are much less temperature sensitive, even with light loads. But, that said, powder manufacturers do not have a big market for real light loading capability. Smokeless powders are designed to run WELL close to their max pressure levels, not the minimums you find in manuals, and certainly not the "below mins" you find in many cowboy's gun belts! It is true that very light loading makes consistent loads hard to build at any temperature. And with some powders, it becomes
  2. The Cast Boolits web site has several fellows who sell assembled PID controllers. Were I interested in more precise temperature control than what the RCBS pot provides, I'd probably install one of those. But I've not had that much need for control. If you want to scratch build, here's a starter post: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?181319-Pid-Controller-Schematic As shown in that post, the PID controller itself is usually just a purchase from Auber Instruments or similar vendor. Otherwise, on the Cast Boolits site, search for PID. Good luck, GJ
  3. That's a sturdy looking table; congrats! Around here, we use about 30" square or larger. A lot of times, we use 4 feet long (2 feet wide) folding tables, with a carpet top. As tall as you have built that, I would encourage stabilizer feet that run out to both sides and to the down-range side of the table. It will be pretty easy to knock that table over on any sort of grassy or rough ground with the height being larger than the width and depth. Or some sort of anchor system, which then makes setup and take-down slower. Also, make sure you use something on the table top to keep gu
  4. Not the motors on vibratory cleaners, unfortunately. They source them out of China and know how fast they will go out. Good luck, GJ
  5. If you don't value the benefits of an SKB, then you don't. It's a personal preference. But the fastest cowboy shooters like the light weight, reliable function, the long life, of an SKB. For them, the price is worth it. Don't know anyone shooting SKB just for "glam" - they shoot them for performance! Possibly. Only your shot timer and score sheet can tell you for sure. Good luck, GJ
  6. For a .38 special loading for Cowboy, I'd recommend the Accurate mold # 36-125D (with a crimp groove) or 36-125-B (without a crimp groove). Truncated cone, long enough to feed well in toggle link rifles. Those will of course make you a 125 grain slug - one of the most common and useful weights for 38 spl. See them at: http://www.accuratemolds.com/catalog.php?page=5 You can get Tom to make one of those molds in 2-3 weeks, the molds even in Aluminum will last for a long time, you get to specify the exact diameter of the mold, and he makes them in 4 cavity like you asked for.
  7. Some powders are noted to be pretty "cold weak." Clays is among them. Titegroup is advertised as being temperature insensitive. Like you, WC, I have not found that to be true at our low pressure cowboy loads and freezing weather. Mag primers help. One of the best uses of a small cooler - place your ammo and a couple of hand warmer packets in them. Start the hand warmers 30 minutes before match,. By the time you are ready to shoot, ammo will work MUCH better. A few powders become weaker at hot temperatures. I don't recall which ones do that. None of our common pistol/sh
  8. Great, PBT! Good luck with a new ejector spring. Hey, now at least you know the barrel and chamber are sparkling clean! Good luck, GJ
  9. Hard keeping "return customers" if'n you shoot some of them. (Even if it was only splash back off of knockdowns)
  10. Top Brass was indeed a very good line of brass. Lasts well, even in .45 Colt cases. Use it! Good luck, GJ
  11. 3/4 ounce advantages - lower shot cost (the biggest part of the cost in shotshells); less recoil. Disadvantages - missed shots due to poor patterns. I've made 3/4 and 7/8 ounce loads for folks before, even shot some of them. I find it hard to get a 3/4 ounce load to pattern nicely. Most 12 gauge wads just are not designed for 3/4 ounce loads. Sure, you can make the 3/4 ounce load have a very light recoil. But, I and other person I used to load for would leave a knockdown occasionally even using the special 3/4 ounce gray wad from Claybusters. (CB0175-12) http://www.claybusterwa
  12. You have found the problem (most likely). Now to find a solution. Driving that soft lead ball (just like you were slugging the barrel) down from muzzle has a good chance of working. If it is not catching the ring, you may have to upset the ball right in the throat/mouth area. That takes a stout 3/8 inch wood dowel thorugh the barrel, and a short stub of oak dowel in the closed chamber, about 1.20" long (just shorter than a case length). Drive ball most of way down barrel, then insert stub into the chamber and close action. Drive ball until it does not move and upsets against the
  13. Except the existing chamber on that .45-70 barrel has a diameter of .504, leaving the liner hanging in mid air at the bolt face end of the chamber..... Good luck, GJ
  14. Wow, both of those cases in pic 3 show most of the problem. Appears like there could be something stuck in the chamber right at the mouth. The most common thing that might be would be a chunk of the neck of a fired case that stuck in the front end of the neck area of the chamber. Whatever mangled both of those cases in exactly the same way should EASILY be visible to the naked eye. If you are lucky, it is just a piece of the neck of a case - that could probably be removed with a .45 caliber cleaning brush pushed in from the muzzle. If that doesn't do it, casting the chamber full of Cerr
  15. Well, yes, you do have a .45 Colt die that is sizing a little tight. But you have the good luck to have a Marlin rifle that has a fairly tight chamber, also. Since it produces fired brass at .473" OD. Meaning you will have to have a max finished case diameter of about .472" to chamber easily. And since the SDB sizer die is almost certainly a carbide die, it's not easy to ream that out slightly larger. (If you switched to a .45 AUTO die, you would size your brass even tighter.) If you back the sizer die off quite a bit and run the depriming rod down, you might be able to reduce
  16. It's such a simple job for a gunsmith to get right, and hard enough to explain (when you add in the 5 degree toe-in angle to keep the muzzle slightly down when the gun is mounted to your shoulder) that your best bet is probably to visit a smith who knows cowboy guns. Cowboy Carty sounds like he would be close to you. Actually, grinding the pad is the TOUGH part. The videos may make it look easy, but most folks ruin their first pad (or even two) as they sand them down. Now, if you want to proceed on your own, here's one of many ways that work. Figure out what Length of Pull yo
  17. I don't like gunsmiths using the term "cleaned up" when they mean they have to remove metal. It misleads the shooting public into thinking problems with machining are always "just a cleanup". Without pictures, it's hard to say what the fix will have to be, but if you are gouging brass just chambering a round, it's going to be a gunsmith job! Ok, with that out of the way. If there is a gouge below the surface of where the chamber walls should be, that's really tough to remove. A new barrel, a barrel reline or a chamber reline (which isn't done often) are obvious ways to give the barrel
  18. Lacquer finish on a gun stock will be prone to water discoloring, solvent attack, and will be rather brittle. Great on furniture that will be indoors (except bar or table tops where exposed to alcohol) though. Much better to use TruOil or Linspeed when doing stocks. Just refinished a Swedish Mauser (lots of wood with that 29" barrel) - three coats in three days without ArmorAll. Just a couple drops of Japan Dryer in with the tablespoon of oil. Good luck, GJ
  19. Been running an RCBS vibratory bowl heavily for about 8 years now. The trick on that one (and most others) - at least each year, take the darn thing apart, clean and lube the bronze bushings with a good lube (Royal Purple gun oil is what I have used), blow out all the media dust, then reassemble all the stinking little screws and bolts. When it slows a little, it's time for the clean and lube. Put that off, and the bearing and then motor will burn up. Good luck, GJ
  20. Don't leave brass in any of the solutions mentioned above for more than the time it takes to dissolve the carbonates and sulfates that are the residue in the cases. The fasting acting corrosion cleaner I have found (by experiment with solutions plumbers use for cutting scale off plumbing fixtures) is: Quart water 2 tablespoons vinegar 1 tablespoon crystalline sulfamic acid (a grout cleaner from Home Depot or Lowes or tile stores) Warm this to as hot as you can stand to handle. Use thin latex or nitrile gloves. Place corroded brass in solution JUST long enough to stop bubbling -
  21. Full wadcutter ammo is not used in CAS for a couple of reasons . If bullet is BELOW flush with end of case, it's illegal by rule. Won't feed well through lever or pump guns. Made to be shot in target revolvers. Good luck, GJ (Exact measurement correction applied)
  22. 'Bout the best Christmas Blessings ever! Life is full of wondrous Gifts! Amen, GJ
  23. Rye Whiskey - Knob Creek Rye is not hard to choke down. Prefer Russell's Reserve 6 year old, though. Ditto the remarks on the CR Rye - way too mild mannered - no character. For Scotch - Talisker. No question.
  24. And another document of the same place and time. Headquarters 101st Airborne Division Office of the Division Commander 24 December 1944 What's Merry about all this, you ask? We're fighting - it's cold - we aren't home. All true but what has the proud Eagle Division accomplished with its worthy comrades of the 10th Armored Division, the 705th Tank Destroyer Battalion and all the rest? Just this: We have stopped cold everything that has been thrown at us from the North, East, South and West. We have identifications from four German Panzer Divisions, two German Infantry Divisions and on
  25. Hey, Johnny! Merry Christmas pard! Yep, ED has been very helpful on this transaction. GJ
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