Jump to content
SASS Wire Forum

Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

Members
  • Posts

    11,558
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Everything posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. Your arrow points to the projection on the REAR of part 347 (the top lock lever) Discussions of gun work should always use the proper orientation of the firearm and the parts as they are installed in the gun. "Forward" is towards the muzzle end of the firearm. "Rearward" is toward the butt stock. Orientation directions are just as if the firearm is held when firing. This would eliminate a ton of confusion in this thread. And calling parts by their proper name helps a lot too. Don't write about both the locking bolt and the underbarrel locking lugs as "lugs." good luck, GJ
  2. Says more about the machine operator not paying attention to when tooling needs sharpening! And then too little QA. All to save costs, I would guess GJ
  3. Sounds like there is a "selector" involved with your single-trigger mechanism. Find and figure out how to control it. But if you have choke tubes in the gun, it IS in your control - swap the tubes.
  4. Most side by sides with dual triggers have the front trigger fire the right barrel, back trigger fires the left barrel. Baikal, SKB, Browning, all work that way. Suppose your Boito does too. If both barrels are Cylinder (no choke) it makes no difference which one fires first. And if you are doing a single shell reload instead of 2 at a time, don't do it even for a makeup shot. good luck, GJ
  5. I'd do this with a chamber polishing flexi-hone. Brownells has a "22 magnum" hone that if you wrap some tape around it to limit the travel into the chamber just far enough for .22 LR, would probably take the roughness out. 800 grit. Get their "flexi-hone" oil, as if you use other oils it can soften the adhesive that holds the abrasive balls together on the brush. https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/paint-metal-prep/abrasives-polishing/rifle-polishing-system/ Go slow, follow their instructions, use the special oil. I've used these on rough .38 special chambers, .45 colt, the mainspring housing bore of 1911 pistols, 12 gauge chambers and forcing cones. They really polish up a chamber/bore! Realize that the manufacturer states this is for a .22 magnum chamber. So, you will want to use it very lightly, and in the fine grit (800) it should not make the .22 LR chambers too sloppy. No guarantees that it will hold to a perfect .22 LR chamber, though. An alternative would be to make up a honing tool yourself, perhaps a 0.200" diameter (or 3/16") brass rod that you split with a fine jewelers saw blade enough to hold one wrap of 400 grit sandpaper. Turn very slow with a drill. Another alternative - if you want a strong guarantee - get a finish reamer for .22 LR. It'll be $200 to buy, so look to (I believe) a company "4D" for a rental reamer. You may want to be real careful so you do not ding it and incur a regrind/replacement charge. If you have a local gunsmith who cuts barrels and chambers, you could have him rent one and do the work. This will cut any part of the chamber clean which was not cut well at factory. It will not remove "too-deep" gouges Have you checked with Ruger to see if they will do this work as a warranty job? good luck, GJ
  6. They may no longer be making the .45 Colt Dual Ring Carbide Sizing die. Midway for example shows all the individual sizer dies for all the pistol calibers are discontinued. I'd look on Ebay to see if there are some used dies there. I see several loading equipment sites that are showing a dual ring sizer in .45 Auto, .44 Special and .40 S&W sets. Like: https://www.precisionreloading.com/cart.php#!q=dual ring I got mine 5 years ago and have written about it at least 3 times on here. Perhaps a flood of requests to Redding and they might again make them? The other way to get a tight neck and a "loose" larger diameter body might be to use two sizer dies. A carbide sizer to size the top third of the case, and a steel sizer that can be reamed/honed out to set the rest of the body to a larger diameter. Yes, it would be a pain. good luck with a search, GJ
  7. All long range iron sight shooting recommendations I follow call for just enough of a front sight size (width) to let your eyes still pick it up. A large bead that you are trying to guess exactly where the rounded top ends is also going to block almost half of your view of the target. That is one reason good long range sights (like the Lyman globe front sight) have a selection of inserts that can be swapped out to match the range you are shooting, including ring sights that leave the exact center of the target visible. Next most accurate is a fairly narrow post with a sharp-edged top that lets you know exactly where the aiming point on the sight blade is. Most of my long range military rifle shooting I do is with exactly that - a target post sight, if needed, thinned down to the smallest thickness I can see well. good luck, GJ
  8. I've shot 200 yards with .45 Colt and a 200 grain bullet over a full load of WST. I could hold on a man silhouette over a bench rest pretty well once open iron sights were set correctly. Make up the best 100 yard load then work it out to longer range. It will never be a 30-06 or .338 Lapua. Don't fall in the trap of putting a huge front BEAD sight on it - you will loose the target at 200 yards. good luck, GJ
  9. Get a pair of those used factory springs, then grind a LITTLE metal off the outside of the coils, all along the length of the coil. Thin the coiled wire down, removing no more than 10% of original thickness. Leave the spring length alone. Then polish so no grinding marks remain as stress risers (concentration points). That should reduce the strength of the spring by 25% without causing premature failure. Seen several gunsmiths use that trick on coil springs, as well as doing it myself. good luck, GJ
  10. A buffer motor, wheels and stainless-steel compatible buffing compound in several grits, down to about 1200 grit. Be aware of the extra glare/glint you get off the top of the slide and sights - might want to leave that in matte finish. Brownells carries all that and probably still provides some great instruction sheets. A light touch is needed over any lettering and screw/pin holes to avoid washing and wallowing them out If this is your first attempt at buffing, do something real cheap as your practice piece, then you'll find if you have the steady hands and patience needed to do a nice job. Otherwise, there's several GUN finishing shops around your location that can do this for probably $200 or so. But never let a bumper re-chrome shop touch one. good luck, GJ
  11. Another thing - what is the expander button diameter below where the expansion bell on the button is (before the taper out to larger diameter) ? If you are using a lead bullet of .429" diameter, and you only open the lower part of the neck up to about 0.427 (a diameter common with some .44-40 expander buttons), then you have a lot of neck tension as you seat the bullet, and that may be squishing some of the bands on the bullet upward and out at the case mouth. good luck, GJ
  12. Those pictures are very similar to when a seating die is turning the crimp into the bullet BEFORE the seater depth has been fully reached. As in, bullet continues to be shoved in the case AFTER the crimp has come down to bullet diameter. Thus, the mouth shaves lead from that point on. First, you are belling a little too much. Because there is a gap in picture between the bullet base and, and the brass at the mouth. You could close that up a hair and eliminate your first reported problem that the case will not by hand enter the seating die fully. Second, it seems the crimp ring in the die is turning in the mouth BEFORE your bullet has reached desired depth of seating. Can you back off the body of the die so that NO crimp is applied, seat a bullet to right spot, then back off the STEM and run the BODY of the die of the die down to make the crimp you want, then run the STEM back down to touch the nose of bullet with that cartridge in the die, so you get the seating stem real close to the proper seating depth again. Are you SURE you don't have a bunch of dried lube stuck in the die below the original crimp ring? Cleaned the die body with solvent and a brush yet? This is a combined seat/crimp die, right? Difficulties like this is why loading .44-40 is normally done with a seater die, then a crimp die. good luck, GJ
  13. The M die is always a great way to handle cast bullet belling problems, because it is very adjustable and it gets the main part of the neck internal diameter sized right for a cast bullet. Use one in all my 6.5mm, .30 cal, 8mm and .45 cal rifle cast bullet loading. But I get good results with an RCBS .429" expander button in RCBS die set that I run in a turret press. No Dillon hi-speed loading with .44-40 - just NOT worth all the case damage from bulges. good luck, GJ
  14. Yeah, sometimes details matter a whole bunch. GJ
  15. Not heard of a problem with TiteGroup and powder coated bullets. Use good polymer - HyTek I understand is great. For me, poly bullets is just a hassle I don't want to gear up for. Been shooting conventional lube for 50 years and will keep doing it for the remainder. Cheaper, faster to make, just as accurate. good luck, GJ
  16. First off - pure soft lead is 5 Brinnell hardness - good for black powder loads. Wheel weights NOW are about 9 or 10 Brinnell - almost right for low pressure loads like cowboy shooting uses. That's a "SOFT" lead alloy for pistols. Many commercial casters use from 12 to 16 Brinnell hardness (as if everyone is going to shoot loads at magnum velocities). Good for shipping, too hard (and too much antimony - AKA cost) for good shooting with cowboy loads. THAT is what I would call "HARD" pistol bullet alloy. COWBOY Smokeless loads work real well at 8 or 9 Brinnell hardness. Harder works, but you have to get the diameter sized right for your barrel, since harder lead won't be expanded when fired to make a loose fit into a tight fit, while softer lead (8 Brinnell) will bump up at the chamber pressures most cowboy loads make (maybe 8,000 PSI). That would be what I would call a SOFT alloy - it can be scratched with a thumbnail if you try hard. So, I use about 2/3 WW and 1/3 soft lead and get wonderful cowboy bullets at about 8 or 9 Brinnell, and because they bump up to fill the barrel and grooves, there's no leading with even homemade lube. I even shoot 9 Brinnell bullets in my .45 auto for Wild Bunch - feed perfectly and no leading. Many folks have had barrel leading problems when they start out shooting cowboy, and commercial casters are SO prone to sell them hard slugs rather than make sure the bullet diameter fits the groove diameter of the barrel, but those hard commercial bullets really make the leading worse. This has caused the trend of many folks now shooting polymer coated slugs - they just don't understand that a soft alloy bullet would save them money and prevent leading. But then, too, they sometimes get tired of cleaning lube out of their seating dies, and a poly coated slug eliminates most of that. So, if you have been making good 9 MM bullets that don't lead the barrel, soften your alloy a bit to get a little softer slug, and you will do fine. good luck, GJ
  17. I have only 4 stations on a Dillon 550, and I HIGHLY value a powder cop/lock out die after the bell and charge station. That leaves me only one station. So, on cast bullet .45 auto, .45 Colt and Cowboy .45 spl, I use the combined seat/crimp die. If I were making Olympic match quality ammo, I'd use separate seat and crimp dies. Only on .44-40 do I use a separate seat and crimp dies because of the tricky thin neck of a .44-40 case (so easy to bulge a neck and then have failures to chamber). good luck, GJ
  18. If you have used that seater die before, and now you can't use it, something has happened to it. Rust? Hardened bullet lube in the die? Got a bore scope you could run into the die for a good visual check? Perhaps the neck of a case broke off and is stuck in the seating die, from the last time you loaded on it. What did Dillon tell you the "proper" amount of belling of the case should be? Just enough increased diameter that the base of the bullet will enter the case when seated by hand, but won't slide freely into the case neck? Or some other sort of "nonsense"? Did you stick a .44 spl seater die in that loader instead of a .44 WCF? OK, here's my usual suspect - you need to get a set of Redding dies including the Redding Profile Crimp Die. That ALWAYS solves a .44-40 loading problem good luck, GJ
  19. So many better (cheaper, available) alternatives.... But if you HAVE to have it (rather than just want it), make the rounds at all the on-line powder vendors once a week and then be willing to pay the hazmat duty. GJ
  20. Most likely the ad copy was lifted from something like an 870 clone (dual action bars and 4 mag capacity) to make the copy for this gun. Trust almost nothing in ad copy on the Guns.com web site, this says to me. They have no one checking the ad copy before it gets sent to the web site. good luck, GJ
  21. Guns.com shows a gun they labeled as a 97 Hawk. https://www.guns.com/firearms/shotguns/pump-action/iac-hawk-97-12-ga-pump-action-4-1-rounds-20-7.3-new?p=20384 But I doubt some of the accuracy of the ad copy included on the page, saying that the magazine only holds 4 rounds! It does indeed look like other IAC 97s as far as the low resolution photo can make it appear. It is labeled as a "new" model, but I doubt that too. good luck, GJ
  22. He used 5 rounds on the four shotgun targets on this stage at the match. Yeah, he pulled 4 when he started with shotgun, IF I REMEMBER CORRECTLY (I had the pleasure to be on his posse, standing next to a family member who was shooting the video). The last 2 shots (not on video) went onto the knockdown targets, meaning he pulled one more from belt at the end. I'd comment on the scoring discussion, but seems many of you folks would not like it. good luck, GJ
  23. Just got some Nobel Sport 688 primers delivered from Precision Reloading, at about 6.5 cents each in 5000 qty. These are 209 size, and reported to work like Winchester and Cheddite. Too bad American primers are MIA. good luck, GJ
  24. One thing I learned a LONG time ago - never think two different guns will shoot the same lead cast bullet to the same accuracy. I have no problem with 200 and even 175 grain slugs' accuracy in .45 Colt guns, which are most of what I have for Cowboy shooting. Lead bullets seem to have a mind of their own about how well they want to shoot. I have quit arguing with them - they are "too hard headed" - and just listen to what each gun tries to tell me. I will say that when shooting 100 yard "long range" matches, I throw in some loads with 230 grain slugs and more velocity than my usual match loads. good luck, GJ
  25. No, both brass AND steel work harden. Bend a steel wire or can lid several times, it gets hard and then fatigue breaks. The bending creates many extremely small cracks in the crystal structure of both of those metals. Initially those small cracks just add to hardness of the metal. But with enough bending, the cracks join together and the metal breaks at the stress fracture point. Brass can be re-softened (annealed) at a much cooler temperature than steel, though. That is what case annealing does - it allows the minor cracks to heal up and join back into normal crystals. Thus the brass is soft again and ready for more work deformation before it breaks. Limit annealing on a bottle neck case to JUST the neck, though. If you soften the shoulder, the case will collapse with very little neck tension against the bullet during seating. good luck, GJ
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.