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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Everything posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. Griff - yeah, that is a REAL fat nosed slug. And poly coating it just makes it a couple thousandths fatter. There is a reamer that will long-taper the leade in 1911 barrels to help you if you really want to shoot that slug. But otherwise, get a smaller nose on the slug. Accurate Molds has a couple of truncated cone mold designs that are really nice in the .45 auto. I shoot the 45-200E a lot. And when I want a 230 grain slug, the 45-230E, good luck, GJ
  2. Same discussion (just about) from a week ago: http://www.sassnet.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=258793&hl=laser Have Drifter (Old West Laser Graphics) or some other laser expert cut you some standard checkering on the forearm with their laser setup. Much faster and almost always quite a bit cheaper than true cut checkering. But just as effective at keeping your hand from slipping. If his prices are about the same as last work I got done, expect about $75. http://oldwestlasergraphic.com/ http://oldwestlasergraphic.com/Checkering.html Also: http://www.chuckaroos.com/
  3. http://www.gunstockduplicating.com/duplication.html In Pennsylvania, USA
  4. That Cimarron (Colt 1878) gun is the same as the TTN hammered double. Stoutest and actually the fastest hammer double to shoot for most cowboys. Go for it. You will be in good company. Good luck, GJ
  5. There's also the amount of storage space and infrastructure support that letting users upload photos and videos requires - such as, a photo upload that is never deleted or cleaned up after a few months would stay on SASS's disk storage forever. And there's the legal ramifications if folks were to upload illegal content to be shared with other people. Porn, copyrighted materials, hate materials, etc. Takes a TON of policing of what folks try to upload onto sharing services. In general, it's much more appropriate to have shared media on a professional web service. But as Google Phot
  6. Alloying your own tin/lead is simple. But if you try to find metallic antimony to add to your alloys, it is tough to find and even harder to get it to melt into lead alloys because it is so much higher melting point. The Antimony Man (now passed on I believe) in Sierra Vista Az used to have a special flux and procedure and metallic lump (pure) antimony available. Now, it's just better to get your antimony already alloyed. Linotype is a common antimony source, wheel weights of course have 2-3%, And the hardball 6% antimony is the common commercial bullet casting alloy. Which
  7. It's not the hardness of the finished bullet, as much as the difficulty of getting proper mold fillout when you have 1% zinc (which is what dissolves in most bullet alloys) in the melt. They just get hard to cast. They have to be cast at about 75 - 150 degrees F above normal. This often means you start frosting the bullet surface when you get the alloy hot enough to cast well-filled bullets. Bottom line, zinc in the melt is a BIG headache. Which is kinda making me very hesitant to cast from melted range scrap any longer.... Good luck, GJ
  8. GP has a pretty large learning curve. If you want to be successful at using it, it probably takes about 4 hard hours of sifting thru the limited documentation and forum help available, and trying out on some of your photos. But, I was able to get fairly good at using it in that 4 hours of testing and trying, even without a teenager looking over my shoulder pointing at the next thing to click. But, it too right now does not seem to let you build a link that shows a picture directly in the SASS Wire page. The link it builds seems to be prohibited for display here. But I can put in a l
  9. Brinell testing - I use graphite drawing pencils. From art supply shop, get Pacific Arc or Pro Art pencil set Here's some conversions between useful graphite hardness (the mark on the pencil) to Brinell hardness that works real well: 6B => 5 Brinell (soft lead) 2B => 11 Brinell (just about perfect for SASS) HB => 15 Brinell (hard cast, what Lyman #2 or hard-ball commercial alloy is close to) H => 20 Brinell (linotype) How to use pencils? Find a flat spot on your alloy. Flat nose or base of bullet works best. Hold pencil so the tip can be pushe
  10. Have had real good luck with free (up to lots of photos) Google Photos. Good luck, GJ
  11. Good luck with your casting efforts! It's both easier than most folks think, and harder than it looks. Since you have already been referred to the best learning materials (Fryxell's work and the Lyman Cast bullet Handbook) above, I'll add some quick-start tips. Good, clean alloy of what ever hardness you choose is VERY important. So, never melt down range lead or wheel weights or any metal that is not already real clean and of known content in your casting pot. Get an old cast iron pot and melt "dirty" lead in that, flux and stir until NOTHING will come out of the metal, and cas
  12. Yep. Or one can just leave the spring in and ALWAYS be able to load 6. About 3" of uncompressed spring out the front of the mag tube works fine. Good luck, GJ
  13. Well, replacing the bead in a Uberti front sight might get a little tricky. Don't know that any one knows the shank diameter that is behind an Uberti bead. The usual way of getting a big bead up front is to drift out the old sight and fit and drift in a new one, for maybe $30. A commonly used sight, and one I would recommend from personal use, is the Grabber, available at the Smith Shop http://www.thesmithshop.com/grabber.html You will want a .410 height for the normal Uberti sights on a rifle-type 73. The .130 bead is pretty big, and the .175 bead more like a shotgun bead, B
  14. I'm pretty sure that NK (the OP) can sort out what he gets as answers, though. Good luck, GJ
  15. An exact count would probably be available if you asked in the Wild Bunch forum, but you can pretty well count on no more than 30 pistol, 10 rifle and 6 shotgun per stage, and 12 stages of regular match and 4 stages of warm-up. I'll let you do the math. Rifle has a good chance of being less. Shotgun could be just a couple more - worth taking an extra box or two. And don't forget extra for WB side matches, including clay birds. Which we don't have word about yet. Bring a BAMM rifle if you got it, too. Good luck, see ya there! GJ
  16. So do I. It's not what I recommend for keeping the peace. Good luck, GJ
  17. A 12 Brinnell bullet needs about 10K PSI pressure to obdurate the base into the rifling of the barrel. Almost never will pards get that kind of pressure in a revolver with BP or with subs. Good luck, GJ
  18. Softer shooting. 2F will give less pressure and recoil. Nice in pistols especially if filling the case. good luck, GJ
  19. SOFT SOFT SOFT. No more than Brinnell 8 for my BP bullets that I cast for revolvers and main match rifle loads. About 5 parts soft lead, 1 part COWW and enough tin to get to 0.5%. Good luck, GJ
  20. THEN Order parts from Ruger (assuming they will let you buy those parts...) Good luck, GJ Could be a slight possibility that the frame suffered damage or was weakened by the bone-charcoal case hardening that Longhunter does. They (LH) don't (chemical) color case. They case harden guns. You might not be able to see that until you get the old plate out of the recoil shield.
  21. I load BP by using a Lyman 55 BP measure and cycle the rotor by hand every case. That removes any steel parts from the powder measure, and I'm pretty confident that it is safe for how I load. Good luck, GJ
  22. Ok, your recoil plate has sunk into the recoil shield because the plate's crosspin is probably sheared or missing. Look at the parts diagram, parts 40 is the plate, and 41 is the shield plate crosspin https://www.midwayusa.com/general.mvc/index/Schematics~ruger_vaquero You can order those parts from several suppliers, Midway and Brownells being a couple of the premier vendors. That cross pin is very tiny. Get a small enough pin punch to drive that out. Make sure you catch the firing pin spring and firing pin and put them back in using the same orientation as what they came o
  23. HR - Can I suggest you go back to your original post and clean up the sentences. Several of them are not making sense. A squib load and another load that is hot in the same batch of ammo might suggest your powder drop is not consistent, or other loading practices are not high quality, ending up with little powder in the squib and too much powder in the hot round. Primers backing out (and staying backed out) in revolvers is usually caused by too light a load. It takes a moderate amount of pressure in the fired round to shove the fired empty case back against the recoil shield on t
  24. Wood is so much cheaper than PVC. I make stands with a 2x4 base, uprights of furring strips, and target support boards cut from old thin plywood. Last for at least 5 years and very light weight (except for base). The uprights will take a few hits without being destroyed, too. Goodluck, GJ
  25. When I buy a gun, I don't want to be lucky. I want to be sure that it works right for most folks. And that I can get parts. Now, the (single stack) Paras being close clones of most 1911s - parts would not worry me. Guns that are not close to 100% reliable are even less interesting to me than guns that are not accurate. Good luck, GJ
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