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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Everything posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. Just about any gunsmith, and lots of parts changers, can put in new 1911 hammers and tune the trigger pull. One of the simplest jobs going. While doing this, I'd have them put in at least a fresh sear spring and mainspring in each gun. Would be hard to beat Jess Briley 1230 Lumpkin Rd, Houston, Texas 77043 (713) 932-6995 Call ahead and see how busy they are. good luck, GJ
  2. Case volume never varies. Better to use volume. Practically speaking, try both and use what gives best accuracy in your guns. good luck, GJ
  3. Maybe the original owner used dry grass clippings and toothpaste as an action tune-up compound. Does it smell minty? Try rinsing some of that sludge to see if there is hay or straw strands in it. I could imagine dust and barn chaff combining to fill up the action if it had been a "barn gun." good luck, GJ
  4. If using a Lyman powder measure, you have to understand how gravity (and the adjustments) work. That is, there are three adjustments to internal bars that open up the throat of the measure. The big, lowest bar has to be open so it's top never sticks out in the throat from under the middle bar. The middle bar has to be tucked under the edge of the top bar. Otherwise, the "steps" retain a variable amount of powder on every throw. When I hear a person say they can't get an accurate weight, that's the first thing I have them check. good luck, GJ
  5. As long as you stick with the same brand of Black Powder, the amount of powder will be the same with weighing or volume. Most folks find a good measure like the Lyman is best, fastest, just as accurate on target as weighing. As you say, if you need to use drop tube to get as much powder in as you can, you need to use the measure. good luck, GJ
  6. Sometimes inconsistent seating depth is caused by applying no crimp or a very loose crimp. Then some of the bullets can stick to the seater stem and be pulled out of case slightly. This will make a longer-than-average OverAll Length (OAL). Can also happen if you have some brass that is short. With that problem, there is not enough mouth to the case to have the crimp die press the mouth into the bullet. OP - you did not specify what DIRECTION your OAL was off. That is important information for folks trying to troubleshoot over the Wire. good luck, GJ
  7. Pretty simple job, if one really wants to do that. Gun gets more expensive and painful to shoot! But Joe Alves at Pioneer Gun Works is up in your neighborhood and might be able to handle that. Also, Randy Redman in Omak, WA does great barrel work. http://www.pioneergunworks.com/ https://redmansrifling.com/ I'd trust either to get it just right. good luck, GJ
  8. Went by a Hobby Lobby today. The cheap set (which works fine) was $10. I picked up that set as a backup for my other two sets Not to put too fine a point on it! You can do well with just these pencils - 4B - 6 Brinell - 30-1 lead-tin 3B - 9 Brinell (great for cowboy, and semiautos below 1000 FPS) B - 12 Brinell wheel weights (Old alloy; modern will be softer)) F - 16 Brinell - 6 Sb - 2 Sn commercial alloy H - 20 Brinell water quench Wheel Weight - about right for moderate cast rifle slugs 2H - 24 Brinell - water quench 6/2 alloy - high velocity
  9. Several folks have developed something very cheap. Search Cast Boolits "lead alloys" forum for testing with drawing pencil sets. A $20 set from Hobby Lobby or Michaels or other art supply store will test bullets for you for next 20 years. The set come with different hardness marks. The Cast Boolits forum gives you a conversion from art-pencil hardness to Brinell hardness. It's just about as accurate as my Cabine Tree hardness tester. good luck, GJ
  10. Soft bullets (Brinell 8 or 9) are PLENTY hard enough for our loads. If you are leading at cowboy game velocities, you are shooting a bullet that is too small and/or lubed (or coated) badly. Of course, when we shoot a game where accuracy largely does not matter, you can shoot almost any hardness of cast bullets and still be on the steel. How hard is that? Still soft enough to scratch a groove with the edge of a fingernail if you press hard. Now, since commercial casters have to make slugs that will work (no leading) at magnum velocities and pressures - about all they want to
  11. Shot in size 9 will work fine. As close as we shoot targets with shotguns, the pattern will be the size of a saucer, and you will never know the difference from #7.5 good luck, GJ
  12. RCBS handles are built even better than the 2 mentioned above, and will usually fit Lyman molds. Lyman makes two sizes of handles. one to fit 1 and 2 cavity molds, and one to fit 4 cavity molds. Saeco/Redding handles are out there (very high quality), but fit only Saecos unless you grind on the tangs. Be aware of what you are buying. Looked at Lyman's own catalog on-line https://www.lymanproducts.com/mould-handles and the picture they show looks exactly like a Saeco handle. Perhaps they are farming out handle production to Saeco/Redding and ensuring that
  13. They will make great sporting clays or trap ammo! good luck, GJ
  14. Yep, if you are a little careful, a primer can be tapped out or punched out with sizer/decapper die without setting it off. Been doing that for 45 years. Wearing good eye protection is a minimum when doing that. good luck, GJ
  15. But they made so few that few of us have ever seen one. I would bet at least they used high-alloy steel in the frame and bolt and links. They use lower-strength (high-carbon only) steels for those same parts in the regular 73s. Do NOT expect to run 40,000 PSI like a .44 Mag can in a .357 mag rifle, unless it's a Win 92 or 94 design. Good luck, GJ
  16. Yeah, once you shoot a cowboy match, you will realize you don't need OR WANT to shoot .357 magnum factory loads at one. good luck, GJ
  17. If your lizard litter is dusty, you need a used dryer sheet in your vibratory bowl. No more dust and cleaner media afterwards, too. good luck, GJ
  18. I think you may have read too many old articles about the weakness of an original Winchester 73 action. And, there are no maximum SAAMI pressure limits. There are SAAMI pressure limits. And proof testing runs a little above that. You either buy factory ammo and reload to factory ammo specifications (from ANY good loading manual), or you hot-rod past those limits. Me, I'd stick to a Miroku built 73 in .357 magnum, currently made under the Winchester brand name. It would be tested to SAAMI factory .357 magnum ammo levels. Would be fairly slick right out of the box
  19. The standard spring weight for a 1911 recoil spring is 16 pounds. That would be much stiffer than the 11 pounder that you first tried. Bet that was what you should have used. good luck, GJ
  20. I really wish you would state the name of the powder consistently. Even in your last post, you mix TiteWad and TiteGroup. They are TWO DIFFERENT powders! In fact, looking this last reply over again, you also mention Red Dot as the shotgun powder, too. That is just plain dangerous for others to follow! good luck, GJ
  21. And remind ROs to keep the timer close to gun especially if muzzles are going through a window or door. Some of the standard velocity .22 ammo is really quiet. Avoid the Aguila sub-sonic ammo - several types of those are so slow they will stick/stack up in barrels! good luck, GJ
  22. Nope, fiber wads will work fine. They are (will be): * slower to load in a progressive loader (non-progressive is less of a problem, but still slower) * more likely to tip a wad during insertion , which can ruin a pattern or make crimp impossible to fold tightly * going to launch fiber in the air after a shot * harder to load a heavy load that shoots well without weak cores (but light loads are much easier) * shoot looser patterns in most guns * cost more than plastic wads any more, and harder to find But, they allow a load to be very adjustable to
  23. The roll crimp put on a brass hull is there just to enable easy entry into the chamber. The less you need there, the better the brass hull lasts. It will not shoot out for many rounds put through each hull. There are shell holders and sizing dies made by RCBS (iirc) to occasionally resize the fired hull in a single stage press. You WILL NOT successfully resize in a progressive shotgun press! Elmer's glue, carpenter's glue, PVA glue, water glass (real name is sodium silicate made into a gel with a little water), hot glue - all will shoot out of the hull when the wads and shot pa
  24. You can't always get everything you want in a hoarding/panic situation as we have now. Go with what works, and they can find a cream puff load later. Good luck, GJ
  25. Titewad is the Hodgdon powder for that. or even Clays. Titegroup is strongly considered a pistol powder only by Hodgdon, and has almost no published shotgun data. Shotgun data is the hardest to invent a load for when you don't have a lot to compare to. If you want a Clays load, then in Win AA hulls, try 15 grains Clays, the Claybuster CB0178 wad, most any primer, 7/8 ounce shot. I've used that before for a light 12 gauge load in Cowboy. good luck, GJ
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