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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Posts posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. I recommend the RCBS powder lock-out die, not just the powder cop (indicator rod) die.  Because then I don't have to look at the cop die every stroke.  Just another thing to keep things simple and reliable.

     

    On most cartridges for our non-precision minute-of-steel at 5 yards competitions, I give up NOTHING by using a combined seat/crimp die.   Even on my .45 auto loads.  Ten extra seconds to adjust that seat/crimp die properly, and I never mess with it again for at least a year at time.

     

    Having a separate seat and crimp die is needed in precision rifle shooting at 500 or 1500 yards.  Or perhaps for NRA pistol bullseye matches.  Not much needed for our shooting.

     

    good luck, GJ

  2. Do you have any shotgun facilities within 5 or 10 miles - something that could be driven in 15 minutes?

     

    I would not try to use a timer on something that involves the reaction time of the person pulling the trap, then the time that the shooter takes.  Too nit-picky and technically challenging for most shooters to execute reliably.

     

    Most "informal" shotgun games involve just judging a hit or miss on the target. 

     

    Annie Oakley is one that can be used with up to about 10 shooters at a time.   Shooters line up.  A bird is thrown moderately hard in a safe direction away from all of the shooters.  First shooter must shoot, and if they break the bird, that's the end of that shooter's turn.  Then next shooter in line gets a shot at next bird thrown (on his call).  If he does not break it, and bird has not yet hit the ground, next shooter(s) in line can shoot in order.  If one breaks the bird in air, all who shot and missed sit down.  If no one breaks bird, nobody leaves.  If someone shoots AFTER the bird has broken in air or on ground, or shoots out of turn, THAT shooter sits down, too..   Next bird always starts with the person AFTER the last to shoot.  Gets interesting when the shot order reaches the end of the line and wraps around to the front of the line.   Keep going until all but one shooter is eliminated.

     

    And, you can have a "loser's bracket",  where anyone who wants to shoot again can get in line and shoot a second time.  Winner from that may go into a one-on-one shootoff, or perhaps with the last four left in the "winner's bracket" line.   More chances to shoot.

     

    Only needs one trap,  only need a few birds, over with quickly.  And lots of spectator interest - something lots of side matches don't have.  Watch out for TOO MUCH LAUGHING.  Only needs a trap loader/puller and an "impartial" sharp-eyed judge to run things.

     

    good luck, GJ

     

     

  3. What kind of shotgun ranges/courses do you have available to throw birds on?

     

    Three major options, and a few minor options that I've shot.

     

    You can make it open for all shotguns, but to "level the field" for cowboys, I like to see cowboy-match-legal shotguns only.

     

    1) Trap, but shoot close enough that a cylinder bore shotgun is not going to penalize the shooter.  Shooting a round of singles (25 shots) from the 16 yard line is about right.  Keep score like normal.  Best score wins or gets into a shoot-off.

     

    2) Skeet - shoot it normally.  Keep score.  Best score wins or gets invited to a shoot-off.

     

    3) Sporting clays - have the course set up like they would for a Charity or Corporate shoot - that is, with fairly easy birds.   Shoot a 50 shot course, unless folks are very short of time.   Or, if there is a Five-Stand course, shoot 25 shots on that.  With Charity birds thrown.

     

    Then there are "hunting courses" like a quail walk or a pair of wobble traps - all more complicated to explain and manage.

     

    If you have to make up a course, find and setup traps, order birds, and decide the rules to use, and you have never done this before, be AWARE IT IS EASY TO SCREW THIS THING UP.   Best if YOU don't do it, but find someone who knows the games, and knows the safety aspects (especially locations of traps and shooting stations, and loading and fixing traps).  Then let them take the lead.  The folks who run the trap or skeet or sporting clays range would probably be very willing to set up a course to be shot, especially if you shoot after the main crowd at the clays range goes home - like 2 to 5 PM in the afternoon, or not on weekend days.

     

    good luck, GJ

  4. If the socket doesn't fit down in the well of the action, stick it on your 1/4" bit driver, then grind off some of the outer wall, slowly turning it.    

     

    The Chinese FP retainer nuts have a little taper, too.  If your socket is a tight fit on the nut, slot one wall about half way down with a hacksaw to let the mouth of the socket open slightly.

     

    good luck, GJ

     

    • Thanks 1
  5. Too light a firing pin strike to fire.   Can be caused by

    - not seating primers to bottom of pocket

    - using rifle primers instead of pistol in pistol cartridges

    - springs have weakened in firearm = this DOES happen with Uberti flat springs

    - firearm(s) are dirty or worn in critical fire-control areas.    Dirty could EASILY have happened since last month.

     

    But - recent repair/maintenance work nearly always should be suspect FIRST:

    1 hour ago, Lawdog Dago Dom said:

    The Uberti had a new extended firing pin installed this week.

     

    To verify if your firearm(s) are faulty - have someone else fire the cartridges in their functional guns.   You have already just about proven this is a problem if your 73 rifle won't fire them and your revolvers will.

     

    So, either the new firing pin is bad (short, oversize,  bent, won't fit in the bore of the bolt properly) or it has been installed improperly.  Or something else in the fire control system has been installed improperly.  (Hammer, hammer spring, firing pin extension, etc., etc.)

     

    Federal primers usually are easiest to light off.  If you have problems with them, you will have problems with all others, most likely.  Blaming the factory is the LAST thing I would do at this point (and the thing least likely to get a workable path forward), unless you can see or measure something about the primers that is abnormal.

     

    good luck, GJ

    • Like 6
    • Thanks 3
  6. Yep, IMC's recipe is what is called PAM

     

    Denatured alcohol is likely to be more expensive and harder to find than isopropyl.

     

    Only mix a little at time, as the peroxide will lose it's fizz in a few days.   Still cleans BP and subs, greasy grills, kruddy kitchen counters just about as well even if it goes flat.

     

    good luck, GJ

     

     

  7. If you are showing ALL the "rubber" pellets that were in the gun, that would be MAYBE half an ounce total weight.   Will not reduce recoil or change balance with that small weight of addition. 

     

    It's surely something done by an individual.  Never seen that "technology" described in any gunsmithing or tuning article I've read.

     

    good luck, GJ

  8. Nope, it's the key that holds the Firing Pin Extension to the Bolt.  A VERY CRITICAL part that you need to put back in the gun BEFORE FIRING it.  (This is not something specific to just Boogie kits.  It now in all Uberti 73s)

     

    The redesigned Uberti bolts starting about 4 years ago have all had this connection between the bolt and FPE.  Before that, a 1/16" or so (very thin) cross pin connected the parts.  They didn't fail often, but enough that powers that be decided a new design was warranted.

     

    good luck, GJ

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 3
  9. Another rare problem in a 73 is that you have a cracked or otherwise damaged loading gate.  If the perpendicular tab section of the gate bends back into the action under pressure from the full stack of cartridges, that tab can jam the links or let that first cartridge rim get back into the loading gate mortise even if the mortise is properly beveled.   It is a problem that does not just go away by itself usually.   And 73 gates are a lot stronger than 66 gates, where its a kinda common problem.

     

    Shove a finger in the loading gate, you will feel a problem if a cartridge is back in the mortise.

     

    good luck, GJ

    • Like 3
  10. Looking down in the carrier when the jam occurs will also let you see if this is the "two-cartridges-on-the-carrier" problem, too.  If you see a bunch of rim of the second cartridge sticking back into the carrier where the FLAT surface is, instead of the rim sitting out over the RAMP surface that returns the second cartridge into the magazine, then yes, the OP has a short-OAL problem that can be solved by loading longer or re-sloping the ramp.

     

    All it takes is going to the range, running the gun until you reproduce the jam, then LOOKING in the carrier slot.   Your eyes will tell you what is wrong.  And pushing either the first cartridge straight or the second cartridge back into the magazine will most likely "fix" the jam temporarily.  Then you will know what has to be worked on.

     

    good luck, GJ

    • Like 2
  11. That's pretty short OAL unless the carrier has been "re-sloped" on the cartridge return ramp.   I usually loaded .38 Specials to 1.540" and that was after re-sloping the return ramp.  

     

    BUT - a short cartridge length will cause the "two-cartridges-on-the-carrier" jam regardless of if it's the first round or the next to last one.  What you describe is not a short cartridge caused problem.

     

    good luck, GJ

    • Like 3
  12. I'd check with Johnny Meadows down in Tucson.   Or Jim Bowie in Mojave.  Either will do a great job, or tell you if they can't work on an original without really damaging it's value.

     

        Arizona - Jim Bowie, Cowboy and Indians Store, Mojave Valley, AZ (714) 210-2720
        Arizona - (by Appointment Only), Johnny Meadows, James Peoble  johnnymeadows55@yahoo.com

     

    good luck, GJ

  13. 1 hour ago, Dark Horse Charlie said:

    tension on the pin spring.

     

    That would be the tension screw for the hammer spring.   Yes, adding a little more tension MIGHT take care of a spring that has seen lots of use, or a replaced spring that was made or adjusted on the light side.  If you gun is still stock, making the Uberti hammer spring even tighter is probably not going to fix anything, except help you build up your triceps.

     

    good luck, GJ

  14. Almost certainly a poorly machined and smoothed loading mortise. 

     

    Load up a magazine with ten dummies (or at least one dummy after 9 live rounds - be REAL careful).  If you look down in the carrier from the top and see the rim of the first cartridge sitting slightly cocked off to the side, the loading mortise not being beveled properly is what is locking the action.  You can fix this problem each time when you load up magazine.   Reach up through the loading gate and get a stick or your pinky finger onto the base of the cartridge sitting in the carrier.  Push it forward and usually it will straighten out and lay straight in the carrier.   This problem usually appears only on the first round to come out of magazine, due to more spring tension on the stack of cartridges when the mag is loaded with several rounds.

     

    Here's a good walk-through of how to fix this:

    http://www.pioneergunworks.com/technical-info/

     

    Scroll down to the topic in the PDF files:

    Model 66 & 73 frame modification to improve feeding of the first round

     

    and click it.  Follow instructions.

     

    good luck, GJ

     

     

    • Like 4
    • Thanks 1
  15. Dirty firing pin channel or jammed FP spring

    Weak hammer strike

    Loose junction between firing pin extension and bolt

    Egg-shaped worn frame bearing surface that firing pin extension slides through from lots of use without keeping grease on the FPE itself.  This allows FPE to buckle upwards at the bolt interface absorbing lots of energy from the hammer strike

     

    But a broken firing pin is the most common problem, and not all broken pins spit out the broken section, so it still appears good until FP is removed from bolt.

     

    good luck, GJ

  16. I have in the past used the Super swager on .38 special cases made by S&B with tight, but not military, pockets.  Worked like a charm for those, too.  And a bunch of 7.62x51 (aka .308 Win military)

     

    good luck, GJ

  17. Ok, so slap one on your long range shotgun!

     

    Long Range really has very few and ill-defined rules, and most events are totally defined by what information shooters can pry out of the LR match manager.

    Not even any standard ranges for events, nor standards for announcing to competitors  ahead of time what range(s) will be shot.  Not a very serious rifle competition if you can't do that.

     

    good luck, GJ

    • Like 1
  18. That would be an external modification to a firearm.  All ALLOWED external modifications are called out in the rules.  So, if you can't find that it is allowed, then it is not allowed.

     

    good luck, GJ

    • Like 2
  19. It takes a lot of reloading to make up the cost of a sizer die and maybe a hundred brass hulls.

     

    If you can successfully reload Federal Top Gun, Cheddite, Nobel and Fiocchi plastic hulls, you can visit your local sporting clays range and they will be glad to let you have all the straight-wall 12 gauge hulls you want to carry away.    Then, count on two reloads and toss 'em.   And if the crimp is failing, a hull trimmer and a roll crimp tool will also be cheaper than a sizer die.  You may not need to make the BIG investments in brass hulls AND a sizer die too.

     

    Lots of ways to approach loading your own shotshells.....GJ

     

    • Like 2
  20. Seating a bullet farther out in the .45 Auto (aka ACP) cartridge than recommended in the loading manuals can run into a few problems.

     

    1 - chamber pressure will be reduced, and thus muzzle velocity is reduced.   This will not be a major problem unless you are running within 5% of the minimum muzzle velocity on your load. This re-emphasizes the need to check the power factor of your Wild Bunch cartridge loads, as in serious matches you can very well be checked.  Power factor is Muzzle Velocity (FPS) times Bullet Weight (grains) divided by 1000.  You must make or exceed 150 Power Factor if tested at matches.

     

    2 - longer cartridge overall length than about 1.250" with some bullet shapes can lead to ammo which will feed through the magazine but jam the nose into the rifling on some 1911s,.  That can raise chamber pressures and cause pulling of the bullet out of the case when ejecting an unfired round.

     

    Longer than about 1.300" may begin to stick in some magazines and not feed well.  Even longer, and the slide may not pick up the round from the magazine.

     

    So, there really is no usual reason to load longer than the loading manual recommendation.    If you are getting failures to feed a round in your 1911 pistol, it will NOT usually be cured by loading the round LONGER.   (Post your failure to feed symptoms here if you are having some.  Perhaps we will be able to help.)

     

    good luck, GJ

     

    • Like 3
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