Garrison Joe, SASS #60708
-
Posts
12,153 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
6
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708
-
-
4 hours ago, Tall John said:
Lands are 0.449-0.4518"
Grooves are 0.444 - 0.4460"
The names on the barrel features are backwards. Lands are the small diameter - what the barrel was bored to. Grooves are cut into the barrel with a cutting tool that goes deeper than the bore (lands), thus the groove diameters are a larger number!
good luck, GJ
-
1
-
-
In my experience, each gun may be unique, but with proper tuning and appropriate ammo overall length, every 1911 can feed flat point and hollow point ammo. good luck, GJ
-
1
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, Smokin Gator SASS #29736 said:
Isn't the norm .451 for copper jacketed and .452 for lead?
"Norm" for 45 caliber cast bullet is exactly what the OP was wanting to know. As has been answered - 0.452". Unless you have a barrel that is FAR from current specifications - like an original SAA revolver (groove diameter on those is often 0.454").
good luck, GJ
-
2
-
-
Think you would have to ask them. The usual recommendation for accuracy and minimal leading is 0.001" over groove diameter. As you can see, lots of us are using 0.452.
good luck, GJ
-
1
-
-
I size my .45 Colt, .45 auto and C 45 Spl all to 0.452. good luck, GJ
-
1
-
1
-
-
A common guideline used in the past is that a factory level .38 special 158 slug should take the KD down if a 7 yard center hit is made. Seemed to satisfy many of the shooters when EOT was held at Founders Ranch. A little familiar with setting steel there. 😄 GJ
-
1
-
1
-
-
Yep. Same stuff, just compressed into pellets. GJ
-
1
-
-
Never. I'd practice until I get to a reliable sub-4 second reload. good luck, GJ
-
4
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, Tall John said:
given the fact that MEC’s bushing chart hasn’t ever been updated
Not true. They add new powders to it in a pretty timely manner. As for accuracy, there are SO many things that go into volumetric measurement of powder that no one should trust the bushing number for producing a particular weight. All setup fpr reloading should be done by WEIGHT, not by volume.
But, when others make bushings with what APPEAR to match MEC labels, they should try to get pretty close to dropping what MEC bushing of the same label does. Just a common standardization practice.
good luck, GJ
-
1
-
-
17 minutes ago, Shawnee Hills said:
Filing the base of the sight worked until the sight bottomed out on the top of the barrel.
I found one like that. But I took a triangular file and lightly reduced one of the (angled) top sides of the sight's dovetail , and the sight went right in. No filing on the barrel slot on that one, either.
Unless folks post a dovetail slot width measurement taken at the bottom of the slot (hard to do), we are really just guessing which was poorly sized. Since the barrel slots are cut with a one-piece mill cutter, and the sight bases are made with two separate mill cuts - the chances are strong that the sight base is too large. I have not found that Uberti varies the barrel dovetail slot sizes.
good luck, GJ
-
1
-
-
Funny thing that is - random EBayers not holding bushing size quality control that matches to MEC sizes. Who woulda thought?
Betcha you will like the 14.7 grain load. good luck, GJ
-
I ONLY file on the base of the sight. $30 or so. Never on the dovetail slot on a $200+ barrel. Have never had a new sight blade that I could not install with only filing on the base of the sight. good luck, GJ
-
2
-
-
17 hours ago, WOODFOX , sass#34179 said:
I use a copper punch it won't mark your sight
Neither will a brass punch, the tool of most professionals I know. A calibrated sight press (like the Wheeler) is handy if you are shooting rifles with a drift sight and need to make precision adjustments at a match without a zeroing session. good luck, GJ
-
Boss, my turn to buy the chocolate and ceegars! Hope you are riding that Open Range. GJ
-
3
-
-
Both the serial and that "current date" note both are horrible quality. Neither the 4 nor the 1 in the altered image would pass muster. BUT - In a year, AI generation will be copying fonts and handwriting so it will be impossible to spot by 98% of folks.
Have come to believe that ALL altered (non-original) photos posted to any "publication" media (yeah, the technology is there to manage that) should have big disclaimer watermarks put on them.
I have even thought about starting a software company to register, archive, and certify "original content" so that folks can tell by whom and when the original image/text/video was created. Utilizing blockchain technology to provide digital ownership and authentication. Kind of a modern copyright.
We are at the point where nothing posted digitally can be trusted, since the cost barrier to publication is now ZERO and the level of identity checking is also NIL.
good luck, GJ
-
3
-
1
-
-
I usually find close performance correspondence between Clay and Red Dots. Same bulk, too. good luck, GJ
-
2
-
-
1 - It's not unfired BP that damages the cases. 100 year old BP-loaded cases can still be in good shape. BP fouling gets very corrosive - that is why it is important to thoroughly WASH cases that are used with BP to get the fouling ALL out, BEFORE storing or loading those cases.
2 - When some nickel plating of brass is done, the manufacturer does not get the brass properly prepped. Hydrogen embrittlement occurs during nickel plating - that weakens the case. That will then let cases split when reloaded and fired. This is the origin of the cowboy shooting rule of thumb - "Never use nickel plated cases in your rifle" - because rifle extraction is pretty weak. A split case in a toggle rifle will have to be removed with a cleaning rod often. A split case in the revolver can more easily removed, and does not prevent firing the rest of the cartridges.
3 - Theory - you did not get some BP fouling washed out of cases back 15 years ago when you loaded them. Then the corrosion proceeded due to the fouling, not to the fact you put BP or Pinnacle sub into the cases. The nickel cases probably were some that had been improperly plated, and had hydrogen embrittlement problems. The two problems together resulted in the nickel cases splitting, but not the brass cases. Two problems combined to generate unexpected failures.
good luck, GJ
-
3
-
1
-
-
The Remington STS and Nitro 27, Federal High OverAll and Win AA are most of the few brands of hulls with 100% brass headcovers. A magnet won't stick to the headcover.
All others have a steel headcover, with a plating to cut down on rusting of the headcover.
As for aluminum head covered shells - I have yet to see one. Don't trust the COLOR on the surface of the metal. Silvery headcovers are steel with a cadmium plating. If you have a brand that is silvery and a magnet refuses to stick to the headcover - I'd like to hear about it.
Thin steel sheet has very little spring-back when it is made into a headcover (the cap shape of the hull). Brass has good spring-back. When fired, shotshell headcovers expand with the 11,000 psi (for a factory load, roughly) that comes from firing. Then the brass ones spring back down to size, the steel headcovers don't spring back hardly at all. I find that the ability to get shotshells to shuck easily has to do with metal of the headcover. Brass shucks easy, steel (without or with plating) are harder to shuck.
I don't believe the ribbing makes much of a difference in how easy a load is to shuck. The plastic hull walls have some spring-back, just like brass. It just happens that most steel head covered shells are ALSO made with ribbing, and are also lower-cost to manufacture.
good luck, GJ
-
4
-
-
YEAH, for a long time. On a Dillon 550.
First - you DO NOT want to run a .45 auto resizer! It's 0.007" too tight and it splits a lot of C45Spl cases during sizing. Extra work on the case that is not needed AT ALL.
Yes, the Dillon .45 Colt expander plug is the right thing for expanding back out to the right size for a slug.
Seat and crimp with a .45 Auto Rim die myself. A .45 auto puts a taper crimp on, and you want a firm roll crimp on the C45S. Another way, usually involving lathe work, is to use a shortened .45 Colt crimp die. The SEATING step can be done with almost any die. It's the CRIMPING part that is finicky. Since I'm on a 550 with 4 stations, and always run a powder check die, I seat and crimp with a single SEATER/CRIMPER die. Made for .45 AR.
Most other die combinations are less than desirable.
I even run a LOT of trimmed .45 Colt cases, because I find the Starline C45S cases have pretty short case life. The cut-off cases work real well and rarely split.
good luck, GJ
-
3
-
-
Could be lots of cowpokes hitting the server to find out stuff about EOT! GJ
-
Love Norma's brass - which is mostly rifle calibers. GJ
-
1
-
-
There of course are differences between a timer holder and a Timer Operator. Laid out one difference above. 😆 GJ
-
2
-
-
2 hours ago, Nostrum Damus SASS #110702 said:
By the way, the TO thought only four rounds were shot with the second pistol, but when he asked the counters about it, none of them noticed it so the TO assumed he was mistaken when, in fact, all three counters just missed it.
The TO is responsible for supervising the number of rounds fired. A really good TO could have assisted the shooter by saying "One more!". At which point the shooter would probably have the "light go on" that a P had just been earned. But he could have saved the "round not fired going to count as a miss" penalty by putting another round on any revolver target.
good luck, GJ
-
7
-
-
The instructions as printed in the stage instruction sheet seem to me to say exactly what you wrote in the OP. No difference in the target order, the round counts, or the requirement needed to be awarded a bonus.
"A miss cannot cause a procedural" - this "shorthand" rule of thumb is not applicable here. The P was earned by the 9th shot being placed on a target other than the one specified (target #3). When the shot #9 was fired at target #5, that was the P. The "round not fired counts as a miss" is due to the 10th round found in the revolver at the unloading table.
good luck, GJ
-
6
-
MEC Super Sizer
in SASS Wire
Posted · Edited by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708
Win AA HS hulls have a tall base wad inside the base of the hull. Some shot-cup wads that don't have enough taper to them hit that "lip" of the base wad and a few of them have the skirt expand outwards into the hull walls rather than tuck inside of the base wad cup. Those that do expand, often put a ridge through the hull wall that you can feel about 3/8" above the brass. That ridge is just about impossible to get rid of, so I don't use those Win loads for matches. Just practice.
Since the hull wall itself can expand out slightly when shell is fired, those "ridged" shells slide in and out of chambers or chamber gauges fine. But after firing, the ridge is what catches the shotgun chamber wall and keeps the fired hull from shucking easily with a flick of the wrist.
Try being particular with the feel of the shell 1/3 of the way up from the base.
BTW - that ridge is too high for a SuperSizer to compress it. And shotshell loaders do not have any of the dies that try to work on the plastic hull walls, just the brass and the very edge of the mouth, if you have a finish crimp (taper) die on the machine.
It was too much checking for me, so I just switched to using only Rem STS or Nitro 27 or Fed HOA hulls. Very rare now for a hull to stick in my SxS guns.
good luck, GJ