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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 last won the day on April 23 2018

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About Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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    Member
  • Birthday November 30

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  • SASS Number or "Guest"
    60708 LIFE
  • SASS Affiliated Club
    Buffalo Range Riders, High Desert Drifters, Rio Grande Renegades

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Albuquerque NM
  • Interests
    shooting, hiking, hunting, fishing, building, gun smithing, wood working. SASS Regulator. NSCA super veteran.

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  1. The amount of force you should need to pull the tip of the extractor up far enough to release the rim would be about where the extractor tip starts to become uncomfortable (slightly painful) to pull with a bare finger tip. If it comes up easier than that, it's probably weak and worn, so replace it. Good luck, GJ
  2. Sure. See that post shown above! Has some pics of carriers that work well.
  3. The ejector on a 73 (or other toggle link gun) is the CARRIER top surface. Your EJECTOR is not weak. But ejection probably is faulty. Many times this is caused by one specific replacement carrier that is machined a little differently than most replacements.. The carrier has to have enough clearance where the rear-most top surface of the carrier comes into contact with the bottom of the rim of the fired cartridge, pinching it into place as the bolt face retracts into the frame, so the brass does not eject. (We discussed this three months ago right here on the forum, and I'll try to find the reference thread or two that talked about a problem like this....) Found one of them. See if you might have a carrier like CG did... Other times, and probably more common if you have not replaced any parts lately, is that the action has gotten out of time and the carrier is not coming up fast enough to kick the brass up and off the extractor. Could have been due to an Out of Battery firing that has bent the lever or carrier lifter arm. Could be due to wear. If you know how timing has to work in a 73, take a look at the timing when you are running it quickly. The timing has less window to be right the faster you are running the action! Could be due to you trying to run the gun faster! So, even though you say you are not doing anything differently, your first statement says you are trying to go faster than you have in the past. !! That is a BIG difference with a 73. Both possible problems are a little hard to diagnose if you have not seen it yourself before, made more difficult because the problem occurs only at speed.. So, probably a stop in at your rifle gunsmith would be the fastest way to find out what is wrong. Good luck, GJ
  4. Ol # 4 has done many for cowboy shooters.
  5. Many experienced collectors have been fooled by a clever alteration. Hope you are not one of them.
  6. One reason a mil surp barrel can be a bugger to get off is: Bubba drilled right through the receiver and into the barrel, then said "Oops" and put a long set screw in to fill the mistake. Locking receiver onto the barrel!
  7. If you drill right through the receiver "ring" surrounding the barrel chamber, where do you think the drill bit goes?
  8. Might help the OP more if you tell him exactly which generation '73 you have, and which FP of the three variants was the correct one to fit your gun..... Especially if your FP is same as the one he provided a pic of. And, if it is a match, where your gunsmith sourced it from! Good luck, GJ
  9. Shells would have been properly carried to the firing line (loose in a pouch). Once clock is running, shooter can stage ammunition if they do it safely (don't lose control of muzzles of firearms). So, yep, as has been discussed here several times over the years, this would be legal. It's up to you to practice it enough to figure it out when it would make for shorter stage times for you. BTW - grab two at a time to save some time. The ones that are laying on table such that their bases are nicely aligned to grab ready to load. Good luck, GJ
  10. Most gunsmiths of older rifles (not the black guns) could turn out a new firing pin of tool steel from that picture and ensure it fits and operates correctly. Have you tried the usual suspects for antique or reproduced parts? Gun Parts Corp (aka Numrich), NuLine Guns (they bought many of Winchester's gun parts when Win dumped them several years ago). Jack First. Joe Salter. Homestead Parts. CFN Parts. Ask at Winchester Collectors Organization site. Winchester Bob (Bob's Gun Shop). S&S Firearms. Dixie Gun Works. Bob's Gun Shop lists reproduced 73 parts - Firing Pin...............................$55 Jack First - https://jack-first-gun-parts.myshopify.com/collections/winchester-1873-rifle $50 Run-N-Iron could make you a new FP in a heartbeat, I'd wager a goodly sum. Good luck, GJ
  11. Plastic Wad residue is not hard to clean (I do as CC does). But better done outdoors (even at the range) than say in the wife's bathtub. Good luck, GJ
  12. Tin won't harden a bullet much - takes about 11% Sn in a bullet alloy to raise hardness to about 12 Brinnell. Zinc will increase bullet hardness very quickly. Tin is slightly denser than Zinc, so it takes more tin to lighten a bullet density compared to zinc. Good luck, GJ
  13. Looks like an attempt to drill and tap (for scope mount or receiver sight) went slightly too far! That's sad.
  14. Better ignition, especially with a replacement light mainspring. And.... Maybe
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