The Original Lumpy Gritz
-
Posts
27,868 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
20
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by The Original Lumpy Gritz
-
-
1 hour ago, Matthew Duncan said:
1/8” = .125
Left hammer notch is .116” behind/past the sear notch.
Right hammer notch is .122” behind/past the sear notch.
See the backside, towards the rear, of the notch cut in the sear?
When the SG is held fully opened, you want the hammer notch just about equal to the back side of the sear notch.
-
1
-
-
Check out the new Marlins made by Ruger
-
44 minutes ago, Captain Bill Burt said:
Buy replacement rods and do the work to them. If things work out, great, go to it. If they don't, put the original rods back in and chalk it up to experience. Then send OLG the bill for the rods.
THIS ^^^^^
Call CZ-USA and they will ship the rods to you, IF they are in stock.
-
1 minute ago, Matthew Duncan said:
Yes I do. I’m leaving the rods as is for now.Trimming the rods really helps in the action staying open when loading
-
8 minutes ago, Smokin Gator SASS #29736 said:
Some shooters use a boresnake after every stage and other maintenance. If you want to shoot 5 or 6 stages without cleaning after each stage bullets without bp lube probably aren't going to work.
Much depends on what you lube the gun with.
I sloppy lube with Bore Butter.
I will mop the chambers on my SG, to ease extraction with my brass shells.
-
1 hour ago, Matthew Duncan said:
With my ruler I can measure to “about 1/8””.
Do you have a set of dial calipers?
You're gonna need to measure the OAL of the cocking rods to .001, to keep the length equal as you remove material
-
1
-
-
Use your calipers, not a ruler......
-
Shorten the rods in .010 increments, untill the hammer notch is about 1/8" behind/past the sear notch.
-
1
-
-
Let me clarify my remark.
I only use moly-coated in my SASS loads.
These bullets are from Bear Creek Supply....
-
1
-
-
8 hours ago, Calamity Kris said:
What is with lazy people these days. We have had two instances of real laziness where items were damaged. As I was leaving for work this morning, I found a large envelope propped up under a palm tree next to the drive. It had obviously been there a couple of days. It was a congratulations achievement gift from my company, ruined by the drizzle from the last couple of days. Uno was walking through the front yard this morning when he came across our cat food delivery box. It had been ripped open and the cat food bag shredded. He assumed the local raccoons got it. That was $45.00 worth of cat food ruined. I realize our front door is a ways off the road but that does not excuse the laziness of not bringing the items to our door. GGGGRRRRRrrrrrrrrrrr.
Thanks for listening.
We ALL know that was really Uno's breakfast cereal
-
2
-
-
That's my hand you feel on your shoulder
-
2
-
1
-
-
All the time, no issues.
-
1
-
-
3 hours ago, Matthew Duncan said:
Without removing butt and side plates again I don’t know.Check it out when you can.
-
35 minutes ago, slow poke gear said:
I had is same exact issue with a henry 1860 the bolt wasn't going forward far enough for the extractor to catch the case rim. After sending it to henry 4 times they finally replaced all the internals, which did fix the issue. Could be the extractor not being cut right or the bolt it not going forward enough. I hope this gives you a couple ideas to look for.
Slow poke
Or, the extractor pin location is off
-
2
-
-
When you cock the action, how far past the notch on the sear, does the hammer notch travel?
-
1 hour ago, WOODFOX , sass#34179 said:
It did lube that area some but I didn't shoot it at all last year
Use a dab of synthetic grease
-
The ejector does not remove the cartridge from the chamber, the EXTRACTOR does.
The EJECTOR 'kicks' the cartridge out of the receiver, while the EXTRACTOR holds the cartridge case rim against the breechface of the bolt.
You have a EXTRACTOR issue......
-
1
-
1
-
-
OUTSTANDING
-
1
-
-
12 hours ago, Nostrum Damus SASS #110702 said:
The Stoeger doesn't have the same reputation for "stiff" that a new CZ Sharp Tail does. The CZ is built like a tank and once you do what you need to do to make it a useful SASS SxS, it is a joy to shoot and durable -- at least I've not heard of anyone breaking one in use.
Many of us, can break a steel ball in a padded room
-
1
-
-
5 hours ago, WOODFOX , sass#34179 said:
I have a Long Hunter tuned Sharptail bought in Aug. 22 shot it in about 4 stages and couldn't get used to it (I'm a 87 shooter) I've probably shot about 200 rounds through it and it's still stiff to open . Would the Shotgun Boogie springs make it any better ?
I do store it cocked . not ready to give up on it I like sxs's just wondering if it would be worth it to change springs .
Lots of info on this thread .
Thanks Woodfox
Have you lubed the bbl pivot and cocking rod tabs where the forearm attaches?
-
Trim AFTER sizing
-
3
-
-
9 hours ago, Bisley Joe said:
I tried a Starline Brass 45 Colt case in the rifle. Same thing: ejector stayed up when over the "loaded" chamber". Didn;t get a chance to measure because I got home late and can;t remember where the caliper is right now, but I think its safe to say that its the ejector that needs a little filing.
Once the DVD gets here, I will work on it.
EXTRACTOR
-
What happens if the rapidly cycle the action?
Measure the rim thickness of the cartridge and post it up.
-
Reloading lets you 'tailor' the loads to your wants/needs.
Breakfree CLP
in SASS Wire
Posted
Have used it for many years.
I know at one time it was military issue.