The Original Lumpy Gritz

Ruger factory

A completely unreasonable/illegal document

Interesting, my stock 06 prefex would. It would take a bit of effort to close the bolt. No issues at all with our2 Coyote Cap built '87.

'87, 5 in mag tube, one on the carrier with action closed is 6

You can remove the locks and use a formed #10 fender washer in its place.

The counter bore is because the 9mm headspaces on the casemouth. I'm starting to think that cyl is not the correct one for that gun.

Did to put the .357 cyl back in and test fire?

Do they have the internal lock?

Anna Ball Peen, would be a great SASS alias

Have you checked ALL screws for tightness. Look for a notch in the bottom of the carrier where the lever cam makes contact.

No record of him.... https://forums.sassnet.com/index.php?/search/&q=Charlie 120&type=core_members&joinedDate=any&group[4]=1&group[8]=1&group[3]=1&group[20]=1&group[19]=1&group[7]=1&group[18]=1&group[14]=1&group[11]=1&group[21]=1&group[5]=1&group[9]=1

OFS

How well does the cyl stop fit in the frame cut out?

Well worth the read. This is from a member that is no longer with us.

Get a different mould.

Have used it for many years. I know at one time it was military issue.

See the backside, towards the rear, of the notch cut in the sear? When the SG is held fully opened, you want the hammer notch just about equal to the back side of the sear notch.

Check out the new Marlins made by Ruger

THIS ^^^^^ Call CZ-USA and they will ship the rods to you, IF they are in stock.

Trimming the rods really helps in the action staying open when loading

Much depends on what you lube the gun with. I sloppy lube with Bore Butter. I will mop the chambers on my SG, to ease extraction with my brass shells.

Do you have a set of dial calipers? You're gonna need to measure the OAL of the cocking rods to .001, to keep the length equal as you remove material

Use your calipers, not a ruler......

Shorten the rods in .010 increments, untill the hammer notch is about 1/8" behind/past the sear notch.