Colorado Coffinmaker

My own experience has been Excellent with Polymer Coated Bullets. I shoot APP exclusively, again with excellent results. I crimp firmly in the crimp groove to prevent damaging the Polymer and do not "bite" into the lead. I've been shooting Badman Bullets as well as Bullets by Scarlett. Excellent and Excellent. OOPS: I overlooked the original velocity question from the OP. I have no clue what the Max velocity might be based on my actual experience. I don't think I've shot anything over a thousand FPS. No help there.

Happy New Year Right Back Atcha Rye. I are Hopein to make TUSCO in '24

Freeloader taking up Band Width.

Known Fact. Red Polymer bullets are indeed faster than Black Polymer bullets.

Of course, If one doesn't "Face Book" the reference is of no practical value.

I'm Sorry for ya Coot.

Where is this "Car Stuff" you guys are yammering about?? What Car?? Vintage '50s stuff.

Several Lustrum ago, when we went thru the Out Of Battery Discharge fiasco, Uberti changed the geometry relationship between the Firing Pin Extension Rod and the Hammer. This was done to prevent using your face to stop the extension rod in an OOB incident. Then Uberti changed the method of retaining the Extension Rod in the action. If you have a rifle with the small retaining pins to retain the Extension Rod, DO NOT FOOL WITH IT to make it east to remove the rod.

Just one old gunfighters Opine. I've only been shooting Gunfighter for about 25 years. I just picked up a brandy new pair of .45s with those "Lower, Wider" hammers. My muscle memory is so set I had to pull the Trix hammers out and go to regular stand up hammers. I really can't imagine trying those hammers and "Short Stroke" on top of that. TRY BEFORE YOU BUY!! It's a "One Way Trip" PHANTOM: Only if ya can make 'em work and in my case, NO WAY OH ALSO A CAVEAT: I have never been able to shoot Rugers for beans. Dunno why not. Just spray lead.

AWSOME SAUCE FER SURE!!!

PLUS ONE for Widder!! My most recent pair of brandy dam'd new .45s have three and half inch barrels. Yum Yum Yum. Quick out of the holster even if I am too dam'd old to be "quick."

Shot for several years with a friend who had a complete "Vaquero" outfit, replete with a gorgeous Sombrero. The Sombrero wasn't some cardboard tourist thing either. I also have a rather "large" Palm hat that resembles a Sombrero for Summer matches. I call it "Portable Shade."

PLUS ONE for CREEKER - ABSOLUTELY COVID near killed me also. Spent last December in the VA Hospital ICU, lovely Christmas. A year on and I am still not fully recovered and will probably never be 100% again. Working on my second go-round of Pulmonary Rehab. Suffered Lung damage, Heart damage, some Nerve damage and Kidney damage. I was fully vaccinated. I still believe in being fully vaccinated. For those who wish to jump up on their Mild Crate and spout gibberish because they refuse to believe the science, Good On Ya. the only place you will find sympathy is in your Funk & Waganalls. Ignorance is bliss right until you get carried out inna bag. Or Box.

In the past, Taylors Comanchero was built for them by Cody Congagher. They were "Cut and Weld" guns. When Beretta released their '73, it was a combination of copies of links and levers. The links were copies of Pioneer Gunworks and the lever was a copy of Cowboys and Indian. The lifter arm was basically stock. That set up required no cut and weld.

3f APP to the bullet base. Any weight bullet. The load is the same. APP 3f to the bullet base. Regardless of "Pet" load, with 45 Colt you're going to run into Blow-By of gun gas. The only way to eliminate the blow-by is to anneal your cases. OEM 45 Colt cases WILL NOT expand to seal the chamber unless annealed.

Exhaust stacks for crew generated Methane??

Probably not. Way too many changes to dimensions in the intervening years. About a decade or so ago, Uberti "standardized" lots of dimensions. Newer built 1851 and 1860 grips will interchange. A grip set that old would be a Krap Shoot at best. Only if you can get the old grip set for FREE.

Yessir there is. Realizing, as you clobber the hitch, you should pull the Ball assembly OUT when not actually dragging something around.

ACP, How would you suggest "tightening it up??" If you have an .009 bushing to correct End Shake, you started with atrocious Head Space and about maybe .024 barrel to cylinder gap. The only methods to "tighten it up" are setting the barrel back or replacing the barrel. Either is going to be a good bit of work. Obviously, you already shooting it.

H.K., I don't remember alluding to a Blow-By problem with 44-40?? My commentary only addressed straight wall .45 cases and centered on Black Powder and Subs. The .45 does suffer Blow-By with smokeless, however the fouling is much less of a problem. Capt. Burt. Why YES!! Uberti does in fact offer the 1860 Henry with an 18 inch barrel. Stock, the 18 inch Henry will NOT hold 10 44-40 rounds. Itza nine shooter. The 18 Inch in 45 also will not hold 10 45 Colt. It will however, hold 10 45 Schofield with 200Gr bullets. As I mentioned, .45 Henry rifles, full length or 18 inch carbine, can be equipped with a "Smith Shop" Carrier Block, loaded with C45S cartridges and an even longer filler stick. With a little ingenuity, a Henry can be quite fast. it is however, some harder to go fast with a Henry than the '66 or '73. Ya gotta work at it. Almost forgot. With a bit of a modified grip, it is possible to get the support hand well out there and NOT be subject to the "Hop." Takes a little practice though. Capt. Burt. Did forget (OOPSIES). In the event of an ejected round, or a "makeup" or a required on the clock reload, you are correct. "Over The Top" is the only real option. Trying thru the front can be some fun to watch though.

Well, if you want to get technical, install a "Smith Shop" Carrier Block for Cowboy 45 Special, add Stick, Mark 1, A1, put a leather wrap on the barrel, Short Stroke and a Henry can run as fast as any other Toggle Link. Most of the fast crowd just don't want to do that just to be able to run a Henry really fast. Much much simpler to just run an 1866 or the ubiquitous 1873 with all the trix stuff added. And yes, it is legal to add a leather wrap to a Henry. However, unless you are annealing your 45 cases, you ARE going to have a Blow-By problem with BP and Subs.

In my Sordid past, I spent an amount of time as a Helicopter Door Gunner. We (gunners) had a short life expectancy (different story), but it is amazing how hard it is to hit something from a moving Helicopter. And we had MACHINE GUNS. Rest assured, I could hit you, but there were a number of bullets that just dug holes in the dikes. And after further review, let us remind ourselves, Ballistics Expert > An Ex = Has Been and Spert = Drip Under Pressure. It is still quite the challenge to hit a moving target from a herky jerky moving platform with anything like precision.

OK guys, I cannot overstate the IMPROVEMENT in both of my DILLON 650s. I opted for the whole enchilada. I installed the complete "HIT FACTOR" upgrade to include the Bearing Cam Block on one of my machines while the other one went back to DILLON for re-build. The difference in smooth and easy is flat remarkable. When I got my other machine back from DILLON, it was "as new." It still didn't compare to my other machine so I also opted for the whole enchilada again. Both machines run like a "Goosed Moose." Smooth and easy and neither machine spill powder when cycling. Just don't forget to put a little grease on the bearings when you install. I am running one "bent" OEM wire ejector (oops) and one after-market ejector. WELL WORTH THE MONEY. PERIOD

Yes Yes I do however, suggest you take the leap and opt for the whole kit and add the roller index bearing. HUGE improvement. Don't bother with a bandaid. Oh, I also like their ejector.

Don't know if I mentioned it before. Fiber wads tend to blow holes in the pattern. I highly suggest some form of good shot cup. I have found the BP Spitfire wad for 1 Ounce Pay Load to be great. Regardless, if your shooting APP, there is no need to seat the wad with lots of pressure. Just get the wad down to the powder. In Brass hulls you can also use BP 1044 10Ga wads with the petals trimmed back. BIG PLUS ONE fer Garrison Joe on "fussy" clean up. I like/use/love PAM. Just use my spray bottle to wet the bore well, wrap a short 12Ga brass brush with a quarter sheet of Blue HD Paper towel (spray with the PAM also). Three or so passes thru the bore removes all the "Snake Skin." Oily patch and Done.