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Posts posted by Abilene, SASS # 27489
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7 hours ago, Jeb Stuart #65654 said:
I think they are clear, stage instructions state with pistols, meaning both, engage each target at least once. After P3, P2, P1, P5, P4, the shooter can put the last 5 shots wherever he wants.
No, sir! Last shot has to be on P3.
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1 hour ago, Chief Rick said:
...What if the stage instructions read:
With pistols, starting and ending on P3, engage the five pistol targets with at least one round each. Each target must be HIT with at least one round.
Would that then be a miss and a P?
I would say no, because like you said, a miss can't cause a P.
Around here when a stage is written like that, it will often have added "no double taps" or "no triple taps"
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Bear in mind also that SASS and a lot of local WB matches are now using 7 rounds in the magazine. Which makes a revolver a little less practical, unless you just like reloading.
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46 minutes ago, Chickasaw Bill SASS #70001 said:
When I glanced across the title
I saw How to shoot A gunfighter ,
...
In the back?
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Looks like a 4th number on top tang. 7155? 7153? They look to be hand stamped as the spacing and height of the letters varies some. And the bottom looks more like 716 to me.
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Enjoyed meeting you and the Misses, Red. Now you got me thinking...I just checked, and it should be possible to fit SEVEN buckles on a hatband!!
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I guess I don't shoot enough (I certainly don't practice). My three most-used toggle guns have between 7K and 10K rounds of BP and smokeless through each, and have never had a failure to extract. BUT - - I did buy the kit from Scarlett and it's in my cleaning gear, because I know the time will come. I suppose if I just shot one rifle it would happen sooner.
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Or maybe chamber a single round through the loading port, then fill the tube with regular 250 grainers.
You'll have to remember to just cock the hammer for that first shot, though.
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1 hour ago, Long Hunter SASS #20389L said:
...Take about .02 from the bottom of the gate in between the arrows. Think this will solve your loading problem....
Jim, thank you for giving me the impetus to finally look into a similar problem that began when I installed a Shotgun Boogie " '66-style " gate in my '73. I put up with it because it was only the last round that was a pain (and I am lazy). It looked like this was going to be the same thing, with the bottom of the gate hitting the spring or lifter arm. Turns out the outer edge of the stop tab was hitting a humongous machining burr in the frame opening to the left. All I have at this location is a fine-toothed file so it took a while and it didn't take much off that burr, but enough. Did a little cleaning while I was in there, since the last time it was apart was when I put the loading gate in. It was surprising clean though, but then I'm using one of your V-V loads.
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4 hours ago, Dred Bob said:
... The top of the block was very very worn where the cartridge rim scrapes along the top/rear edge of the carrier during ejection. ...
Hi Dred,
You haven't showed us any pictures, and while your description of what is happening is understandable, and I know the top of the carrier can get worn, I just wonder a bit about this possibility: I've always done my own action jobs but my last '73 was extra rough so I gave it to Brushy Creek Bill for an action job. When he lightened the brass carrier, he added a little beveling to the inside corners at the top rear of the flat carrier top. This is to aid in single-loading over-the-top. I'm curious of any of what you called "worn" was perhaps a similar modification to your lifter? Either a mod that is machined into it new or one that someone did later.
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2 hours ago, Marauder SASS #13056 said:
I'm having trouble finding the Cowboys & Indian website.
Could you post the link?
The search engines have been so taken over..I always have to give it several tries to get it spelled right. Gotta remember, in the address there are multiple cowboys and only one Indian.
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14 minutes ago, Nostrum Damus SASS #110702 said:
They don't mean much but it is a fun conversation piece on the wall -- especially for our non-shooting friends -- complete with Old West Action Figurines!!
N.D. that looks great!
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One my one and only .38 case separation, Boogie's tool did not work, but neither did several other methods. It was He!! getting it out. However, I have heard good things about his extractor from others.
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Next month La Sombra will be sitting at the kitchen table filling primer tubes by hand, and thinking "dang I wish I still had that filler, what was I thinking?"
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26 minutes ago, Bull Skinner said:
... He really only needs a rifle in 44 WCF. ...
Actually, he really only needs BRASS in 44wcf. As Coffinmaker mentioned, you can fireform 44wcf brass to .45 Colt and the thin brass works just as well to seal the 45 chamber as it did the 44 chamber. I've heard of this for years, and considered it briefly but then I already shoot BP in 44-40, 32-20, and .38, so I even though I shot mucho BP in my .45 and .44 Spcl rifles years ago, I only put smokeless in them these days.
Although regarding fireforming 44wcf, I'm wondering how many will get split in the process?
And since I don't plan on shooting the .45 with BP, I've never even considered annealing and then keeping those segregated from pistol brass, etc.
But like Bull says, if you are in this game for a while you will be getting more guns. So consider a dash caliber for your next rifle. Also, I can understand how a full case of powder can be a lot of recoil in a .45, but if you are also concerned that it will be too loud and smokey, well then I feel sorry for you.
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I'm curious if many other clubs do this. The Texican Rangers have yearly competition based on monthly match scores. If you shoot in any category at least 5 times during the year, you are entered into the competition for that category. Your best five scores are added up. They shoot Saturday and Sunday so there is plenty of opportunity to get the needed number. Their end of the year picnic is called Shindig which is a free match for members, and they give out the awards to all the category winners. It can be a plaque, a wooden laser cut item, an insulated mug with club logo, etc. To do this fairly the average stage times each month need to be pretty close, so the stage writers don't go crazy with 8-shotgun stages or anything that is more time consuming, and every match is always 5 stages. Obviously, just like annual matches, some categories will be more contested than others and many will win by default. But it's still fun.
The Alamo Area Moderators used to do this until they folded, and the Tin Star Texans did as well. Those clubs and the Texicans are all in the same general area and it was the same shooters, so obviously those folks like to do this. It is a fun diversion.
Any others?
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On 4/14/2024 at 6:12 AM, Diamond Jake said:
Do you dry the brass between the wash and the Walnut tumbling?
You've had several answers saying that yes they dry the brass. But they didn't say why, because if you put wet brass in the walnut or corncob it can make the media pack inside the cases. At least that's what it did to me one time many years ago when my brass was still damp.
After rinsing, I usually just spread the brass on a newspaper sheet on the back porch. In colder weather, which isn't that often around here, I'll spread them out in a low wide cardboard box and let them sit overnight in the house. Haven't had a need to dry brass so fast that I would use the oven.
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My thumbs don't work as good as they used to so I don't gunfighter as much, but when I do I am a double cocker and if it is split pistol, I only cock one pistol for the first shot, then start the double cocking. For the second five, I will double, double, single.
Idaho, I know that isn't what you asked, but hey, thread drift.
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On 3/25/2024 at 11:38 AM, Tuolumne Lawman 6127 said:
These only work with hollow base bullets: i.e. 148 HBWC or the hollow base 150 like the ones that I load with the 150 HBRN from bear creek....
To be clear, you will definitely get the best accuracy with hollow base bullets, but you can shoot regular .38's in them (max OAL 1.42"). Due to the relatively big/close targets at most clubs these days, my '61 Uberti with a Kirst cylinder has not had a miss in the 5 matches at 4 different clubs that I used it.
You won't beat the fast Ruger guys with these, but you will have plenty of style points!
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I thought, hmm, wonder if Uberti parts would fit? So I checked. They don't.
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2 minutes ago, July Smith said:
Congrats on your category win. Real sorry I missed this years match.
Thanks, this was actually a case of "choosing my category wisely", same as last year! I shot FC because I knew Roys Creek Dan was shooting SFC. If I'd have shot SFC, I would have come in 3rd. And actually, I expected Lightning McQueen to beat me and he was until a couple of bad stages. I have to tell you, on his last stage, there were only 2 shotgun targets but his loads were not knocking them over. He was down to one shell and, standing on one foot, he shot and they both fell. No, I didn't get it on video.
July, you were missed! Seeya later.
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I used to slip hammer only on dump targets, but in the last year or two I started slip hammering every shot. The mindset shifts from when to pull the trigger, to when to let go of the hammer. I have to do the "go-around" rarely. This is two handed - no way I could do it when I shot gunfighter.
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Bad Primers
in SASS Wire
Posted
I doubt it. Think about it, the press never removes the dimple from any primer that gets punched out completely, so why would it remove the dimple from one that was only partially punched out? And I don't know about the 650, but on my 550 a primer that is only pushed partially out (or a new one partially seated) will not allow the shell plate to turn.