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SAA cylinder bushings: Clean them or don't clean them?


Outlaw Mike

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What's the SASS/CAS community position on the cylinder bushings? I read some people online (non CAS forums) saying don't bother with them, they don't do anything at all. But it seems like on the CAS forums I hear folks saying clean and lube them.

 

What's the deal - should a CAS SAA with a cylinder bushing get the bushing cleaned or not?

 

Thanks!

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Howdy

 

Yes, by all means, if you clean the gun, remove the bushing, clean it and the hole it slides into, then lube them both before reassembling. In this photo the cylinder and bushing on the left are from an Uberti Cattleman, the ones on the right are from a 2nd Gen Colt. If you shoot Smokeless, just clean and lube the bushing when you clean the rest of the gun. If you shoot Black Powder, clean and lube them every single time you shoot the gun.

 

cylinderbushings02.jpg

 

 

If you don't clean them and lube them occasionally, you run the risk of the bushing corroding in place and becoming a permanent part of the cylinder. I have had to free up the bushing on several old Colts that had rusted in place. I have succeeded with all but one, another 2nd Gen. No amount of Kroil or tapping on the cylinder will free the bushing, I have decided to just let well enough alone with that one.

 

The reason to keep them from rusting together is the bushing is a wear part. If it gets worn and the hole gets sloppy, or endshake sets in, it is much easier and cheaper to replace the bushing than the entire cylinder.

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I clean 'em every time I clean the guns, of course I shoot BP exclusively. :)

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... not a worry about cleaning bushings if percussion revolvers are your choice of handguns. My SAA bushings in the safe are clean as a whistle - the last time I cleaned them about 5 years ago! :D

Use Eezox and they will stay lubed & rust free clean also

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Yep !! Clean them and they will stay nice and smooth!!! Brush out, swab out, and lightly lube with ballistol.. I love the feel of my USFA's when freshly cleaned.. :)

 

Spades H.

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OK, I'll bite. How does one remove said bushing?

Normally, they will practically fall out. Or at least be gently pulled out by pinching the part that sticks out of the cylinder. They are sometimes sticky in new guns maybe due to burrs and may take some effort. It may take a light bump or two using a brass punch from the rear of the cylinder to get it free and start moving. I've never had one harder than that to remove.

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OK, I'll bite. How does one remove said bushing?

The busing should just push out. However, not all Colt clones (and some Colts) do not have a removable bushing. Vaqueros do not have a bushing and early 3rd Gen Colts do not have one either.

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If the bushing is hard to get out with your fingers just use a brass brush to push it out. Some clones do not have a removable bushing as well as some older Colts.

 

Rye

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Howdy Again

 

The removable bushing in a Colt or clone should be a light slip fit. It should slip right out in your fingers without any resistance at all. It should be able to rotate independently of the cylinder. As I said earlier, I have had to drive corroded bushings out of the cylinders of several old Colts. This Bisley Colt was made in 1909. When I bought it the bushing was stuck. I used the brass tool pictured in the photo to drive it out from the rear. The small diameter on the tool fits snugly inside the bushing. This keeps the tool lined up. The large diameter is just small enough to fit inside the ratchet teeth and butt up against the rear of the bushing. A few light raps on the tool with a hammer is usually all it takes to drive out a corroded bushing. There is usually a bit of bubbled up corrosion on the bushing keeping it stuck in the cylinder. A little bit of careful filing will usually remove the offending corrosion in a couple of minutes. Keep carefully removing corrosion until the bushing slips in and out of the cylinder with no resistance. Do not remove enough metal to make the bushing a sloppy fit in the cylinder. An advantage to being able to remove the bushing is if there is endshake, shims can be inserted into the cylinder behind the bushing to take up some of the slack.

 

P.S. The dimensions for the tool are in Kuhnhausen's Colt Single Action Revolvers shop manual. PM me if you want the dimensions.

 

P.P.S. If the bushing does not move with a few moderate raps on the tool from a hammer, just leave well enough alone and leave the bushing in place.

 

Bisleyandcylinderandtool_zpse331aa95.jpg

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